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The recipe will remain the same. However, the name of Milk Bar's iconic dessert is changing, as some critics have been saying for a long time. Crack Pie – the brand name of the butter sweet pie of the chain – will now become Milk Bar Pie.
The name was referring to crack. The gag was that the pie was as addictive as the drug. But more and more critics have pointed out that the name evokes a serious drug epidemic, which has had a disproportionate impact on the African-American community. The harshness with which people talk about the word "crack" is not the same as other drugs. We do not call any "opioid pie" dessert, even though these drugs, claiming predominantly white lives, are also highly addictive.
Last month, the Boston Daily Globe Devra First denounced the use of the word by chef Christina Tosi in an essay titled "There's nothing cute about crack pie." C & # "It's a moment to pay attention to the way we talk about food on addiction and assimilate it with delicious," she wrote.The San Francisco Chronicle culinary critic, Sun Ho, wrote: "Words you will never see me use in restaurant reviews," writing, "Even if something is delicious, its effect on me is nothing like what crack does." Ho also promised not to use the term "addictive" in his writings.
[Soleil Ho is a young, queer woman of color who wants to redefine food criticism]
In a statement posted on the Milk Bar website, Tosi did not mention the reason for criticizing the term, which irritated some critics. "Our mission, after all, is to spread joy and inspire celebration. The name of Crack Pie does not fit this mission, "wrote Tosi in a note to his team. She wrote that the old name "prevented the sticky slice of butter from bringing happiness – my only goal in creating the thing in the first place".
Other restaurants that use the term "crack" have also begun to abandon it. The gourmet restaurant chain HopCat renamed its "crack fries" in December. "Although the name of Crack Fries was designed to be ironic, drug addiction is not a joke," said Mark Gray, CEO of HopCat's parent company, BarFly Ventures, in a video and blog on Youtube. "Drug-related crime has devastated many of the communities we serve."
The old name still has some supporters on Twitter, but many people – including many in the food media – applaud this change. In his statement, Tosi said the new name will be rolled out at 16 Milk Bar bakeries in the United States and Canada in the coming weeks. A crack pie search already redirects to Milk Bar Pie when you click on the official Milk Bar website.
More from Voraciously:
What's in a name? The battle for alternative labeling of meat, milk and rice is raging.
New York restaurant promises "clean" Chinese cuisine, sparking claims of cultural appropriation
How to make truffles at the Milk Bar cake at home
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