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“It hurts,” Ondra said of not winning a medal. “But it’s hard to be too disappointed.
When the numbers stopped, 18-year-old Spaniard Alberto Ginés López had climbed to the gold medal with an unexpected performance. He finished first in speed, seventh in block and fourth in lead, giving him a winning point total of 28 (1 × 7 × 4). All three medalists won one of the disciplines, earning the friendly multiplier of one.
Coleman won silver and Schubert, who barely appeared in the competition until his last moment, rose to bronze.
“Oh my God,” Coleman said after saying goodbye over the phone to his mother in Utah, where family and friends gathered to watch TV. “I never dared to admit the dream that I could win a medal. Just making the final was my goal Hail Mary. “
Coleman, 24, hadn’t expected to be in the final two nights earlier, when his qualifying round ended with a poor bouldering performance and an early drop in the lead. Discouraged, he praised his US teammate Colin Duffy for reaching the final and said he would be in the audience to cheer him on.
But as the scores mixed together, he found himself in eighth and last place in the final. On Thursday, he took first place for a while, before being passed on the front wall, and in the lead, by Ginés López.
Tomoa Narasaki of Japan, a powerhouse on the bouldering and lead circuits and a surprisingly strong speed climber, was fourth.
Speed climbing is a vertical wall sprint, a test of explosive power and muscle memory. The boulder is a slow ascent on a small wall without ropes, a feat of dexterity and strength. Lead most closely resembles outdoor climbing, where athletes hang on with a rope and see how far they can climb before being defeated by exhaustion, time, or a fall.
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