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“If it goes well, we can repeat it,” Elbaz said. “If not, we stop.” But, he says, “the idea is that by the end of the year you have everything you need.
Kay Barron, fashion director of Net-a-Porter, called the collection “modular”. And if, as she said, everyone expected Mr. Elbaz to come back and craft his iconic silk dresses under the umbrella of another heritage brand, and that would have been the easy answer, it could be better. “I can’t wait to try one,” she says.
According to Holli Rogers, brand director for Farfetch, the platform had “no hesitation” in becoming a partner. First, because, she says, “it’s him”. And second, because “there couldn’t be a better time to think about a new way to deliver, a new approach to sustainability.”
The pandemic, with its forced shutdowns and supply chain reverberations, has forced the fashion system to take into account accepted standards, including the schedule of shows, the number of collections and the amount of products produced. Suddenly, the questions Mr. Elbaz was asking himself a few years ago were the questions everyone was asking, and his solutions sounded less like a lonely voice screaming in the wind than a central part of the conversation. Even though her own introspection began long before it became a larger trend.
“The idea was to break the system,” Mr. Elbaz said. “I was never a person who broke the system.” The system, however, may have been broken for him, which places him in the more natural position of a healer. (He says he always wanted to be a doctor.)
“I feel happy that I didn’t give up on my dream and say, ‘OK, I’m coming back to fashion the way it was,’” he said.
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