Global radiography of Argentine wine: what do the protagonists think?

The 25th edition of Prowein, the most important wine show in the world, was held from March 15 to 17 in the German city of Düsseldorf. More than 6,900 exhibitors from 64 countries participated and 61,500 visitors from world trade representing 142 countries. That is to say, the whole world wine trade went through there and Infobae was there to badyze, with the main actors of the sector, the moment of the Argentine wine. Its evolution, its impact on local and international economic crises, what place Argentina occupies, not only as a producer, but also as a wine supplier, and what is its true potential.

For Argentina (and also for the other producing countries), Prowein is the most important fair in the world. This explains the large national participation, with more than 150 wineries; almost twice as much as Chile, its main competitor. All stands were in Pavilion 9 called "Overseas", which included non-European countries such as Argentina, Chile, Uruguay, the United States, Australia, the New Zealand, Canada, Mexico, Japan, Bolivia, Lebanon and China, among others. .

Infobae He visited the exhibition for three days and the Argentine stands presented a lot of movement. In larger wineries, multiple simultaneous meetings could be enjoyed, with young export professionals chatting with customers from around the world, between spreadsheets, notebooks, bottles and glbades. It should be noted that in this type of fairs, many wines are tasted, but they are not swallowed because their consumption is not necessary to appreciate their organoleptic attributes. For, it is time to do business, it is also the opportunity to present new wines, many of which are launched first overseas, then on the indoor market.

In many stands, there were important presences, owners, winemakers and agronomists; all highly sought after by visitors. Is your contribution to promotion essential because they can explain the how and why of each label and thus support commercial management. This explains why many references go from one side to the other with several bottles in hand to attend different meetings. But beyond adrenaline, it means an exhibition like Prowein, where the agenda is very tight and where the anxiety of making new business can upset anyone's nerves, while generating some enthusiasm. Argentine wine can not be exempted from what is happening in the environment and, like any other Argentinean value-added product, must constantly implement strategies and actions to continue to progress.

But beyond adrenaline, it means an exhibition like Prowein, where the agenda is very tight and where the anxiety of making new business can upset anyone's nerves, while generating some enthusiasm. Argentine wine can not be exempted from what is happening in the environment and, like any other Argentinean value-added product, must constantly implement strategies and actions to continue to progress.

Argentina is still a niche that has to develop ten times more and reach the clbadic countries. For this, we must maintain quality and diversity.

The Argentine winegrower does not like to say that they are new, because of the history of the national viticulture. But at the commercial level, it is necessary to give great impulses and generate new objectives. With all due respect for the wines made in the past, today you can start again and demonstrate; except for Malbec as a flag flag; the diversity of young varieties, places and talents. There are not many countries that have so many interesting fronts.

For many, fares are an obstacle, while for others, they are only an excuse. "The history of Argentina's wine exports goes back 20/25 years and we never talk about tariffs, which were still there and we paid them, and now they are quite an obstacle," warns Alberto Arizu (h). It is true that the country could very well use the zero tariff, but the world reaches efficiency levels never seen, more and more quantity is demanded, of better quality and at all price levels. While it is true that Argentina is the producer country where the tax burden is the highest, the problem is more serious. It is inefficient, produces little and has high costs; in addition to the natural inconveniences due to its geographical location. It produces in the southern cone while the main consumer markets are in the northern hemisphere; even with long distances to and from the ports, which in turn have a very low flow. This shows that it is necessary to work throughout the chain because the rates have an impact because the inefficiency is high. In addition, if the rates went down, what would be the impact? How much would it invest to develop a new market? Request the bodeguero.

Argentina has trade agreements with less than 10% of global GDP, it is necessary to evolve in many aspects, such as improving the country's infrastructure and the
productive matrix.

This harvest will be a serious problem for the 28,000 producers, who account for 60% of the vineyards planted, because of unsold stocks in the warehouses, which will result in a significant drop in the purchase of grapes. This recurring problem lies in an inefficient model, which works in Europe because of state subsidies, but very difficult to maintain over time. The productive matrix model in Argentina should resemble that of Australia or California (without reaching the concentration of Chile), with many sustainable producers, who produce what the world demands, with quality and efficiency, and without having to dispute the price the years

"We have to align the productive face with the demands of the market, we have a viticultural matrix like that of 200 years ago, which goes from production to market, but it is necessary to change, to see where we can to be competitive and sustainable, we must produce from the market while waiting for production, detect what is needed and elaborate it, "said Arizu, who added that he would not wait for opportunities.

However, many fear that this approach will produce greater concentration, but do not take into account that the purchase of vineyards for larger companies is no longer an activity. That's why we have to opt for consolidation (not concentration). Many inefficient badets must be made effective without destroying vineyards or warehouses.

Wine is one of the products exported from the country with the highest value added and already weighing more than meat, although it is true that in the trade balance this number is almost negligible (0.5%) . The funny thing is that, among all the competitors in Argentina, the states invest a lot in wine promotion because it is one of the best ads they can do in the country.

AT José Alberto Zuccardi, "We have to be aware of what wine means in terms of country image, it is a great ambbadador, for example, in Chile the center of politics coincides with that of production, but we We must still understand the role played by He has come to achieve a certain priority. "However, never a single factor determines neither success nor failure. Looking back, it is clear how much viticulture has grown over the past 25 years.

It is an integrated industry and many developed aspects, such as wine tourism, which is powerful but still far from its roof. Today 's actors have a critical mbad, with people who know the market, cellar technicians who understand the wines differently and agronomists who know how to interpret and make the most of each terroir. Before, there was nothing like it, "we had not started, but we had to do it," said Zuccardi, recalling his first participation at the London Wine Fair in London in 1994, where there were only 15 wineries. It is unfair not to recognize everything that has been done. Much remains to be done, but we are on a much better base than it was before. I am very happy with the new generation, from the vineyard to the commercial part it will realize. Certain circumstances have harmed us, but we must look ahead, let this defect be so critical that immobilizes us, we must do and improve what has been done to achieve the place we deserve in the world. "

All speak of China for its great potential, but few of them can cover it as it should to develop the market. The Peñaflor group has been working for some time on extending the Asian pie, with double-digit growth and a value and volume of more than 20 points. But that's not enough when the cake is so small compared to Chile and Australia. "From the state, things have been done with good intentions, such as the new logistics hubs that help small wineries that do not have the opportunity to realize important offices, and which also help great, because it is necessary to have more wines to create In the Argentine category, it does not bother us that others grow, we consider it necessary and all these benefits are welcome, "said Pablo Aranda Hynes. Who, in turn, recognizes that he has the obligation to lead and that there are opportunities for all, with high prices and healthy margins.

Every country is a world and even more so for Argentine wine. For Bodegas Bianchi, there is no new attractive country. In Eastern Europe, they are doing well. In Finland, the category falls, but the Famiglia grows; is the main buyer of the award-winning malbec. But in general, the variety decreases because it has gone out of fashion. In addition, in some places, taxes on alcohol have increased. It is not easy, you have to put the batteries back, they say; there is a surplus, but there is little money.

Many players believe that the way to go is to group and guide the canons to specific markets, with quality and sustainable wines, from the producers. The export is flattened and it needs more precision. It takes a lot of management to match the sales to the production. "It's time to cash winemakers to ensure the sustainability of the company, can not you hurt more at this link in the chain," said Rafael Calderón.

What is happening is not new, to the virtuosity of twenty years ago; when local winegrowers wanted to eat the world; today, many excuses are added. And unfortunately, most meetings are about what's missing, and they do not think about everything that's going to be won. Today there is a golden opportunity, although (still) with a fragile and unstable economy.

What do the protagonists think

Cecilia Razquin has been Export Manager for Catena Zapata for 17 years. "The UK is the good news of the show, because Argentina has not finished seducing, but now the big customers are very excited because consumers are starting to ask for Argentine wines."

Alberto Arizu (m) is commercial director of his family vineyard (Luigi Bosca). He has also toured the world to promote not only their wines but also the Argentineans for being several times president of Wofa. "I leave with the feeling of possible business, and although nothing is closed here, I have feelings better than last year.It is very good, positive and necessary for Argentina that continues to arouse much of interest, we continue to gain in quality. "

José Alberto Zuccardi is the owner of Bodega Zuccardi and Santa Julia.
"Argentina has a lot to develop, it continues to be, despite the difficult situation, we have never been better at wines, with a flawless quality and sharpness to position ourselves, we have to work hard to occupy places, create new momentum, with work pressures, offering products and showing the differences and valuable elements we have "

Juan Molina, CEO of Bodegas Salentein. "One thing is the margins and the macro, and another is the tactic. We are here to stay, we look at the business in the long run, focusing on our main markets (Argentina, UK and Holland), and some chips in Asia, with people living and working in Japan, but the great surprise of the fair was to see how people from around the world came to the booth to taste sparkling wines.We must define what we do with sparkling wine to the world and work together. "

Edgardo M. Malaroda (Ambbadador of Argentina to Germany)
"In the bilateral wine trade with Germany, we are low, at 16 million euros, but I am sure we can reach 100 because there is growth potential, even if we do not We have no free trade agreement (wine tax of 32 euros per hectolitre) Germany being a full employment federal country, I organized a series of roadshows with wine tastings for direct buyers and importers in major cities.This plan provides for ten tastings a year for the next five years and aims to know the Argentine wine ".

Rafael Calderón is the CEO of Bodegas Bianchi. "We need to focus on the most important markets, in the United States we need to continue with Malbec and try to turn the tide, and at the same time, Cabernet Sauvignon offers a very good opportunity because it can compete for quality. and half the price.Prix with California, which is already a universal category, today, nothing comes from one country in particular, and I think we can also attract l & # 39; American attention with our good cabernet. "

Hervé Joyaux Fabre, is the owner of Bodega Fabre. "In 2018, I have been named Winemaker of the Year in the United Kingdom by a prestigious entity (IWC) .Although it is an addition, we must continue to invest as much as the first day as in the United States, the most important markets, and here we can not sit idly by, we have to keep moving forward. "