How the cover of “Vogue” was made that caused a scandal around Kamala Harris

Although in light of all that is happening in Washington DC, it seems the least, the magazine cover leak Vogue with the elected vice-president Kamala harris provoked an unexpected outcry. The February issue features Harris in a dark Donald Deal jacket, skinny pants, Converse sneakers, and her iconic pearl necklace. He stands against a leaf green background divided by a pink curtain, colors reminiscent of his sorority home at Howard University. Looks like they captured her laughing with his hands clasped at the waist.

The image was taken by Tyler Mitchell, who in 2018 became the first black photographer by recording coverage of Vogue (with Beyoncé) and is known for her unspoiled aesthetic. Although Gabriella Karefa-Johnson is recognized as the editor of the shoot, also known as the fashion editor in charge, Harris chose and wore her own clothes. The selected photo is decidedly inelegant. A little scruffy. Light is unflattering. The effect is quite unworthy of Vogue. “Disrespectful” was the word most used on social media. As the storm of opinions began, Vogue released another more formal portrait of Harris in a blue Michael Kors Collection suit with an American flag pin on the lapel, arms crossed in a sort of executive power pose in front of a gold curtain, it was the “blanket” digital”.

// Kamala Harris appeared in jeans and sneakers on the cover of American Vogue and sparked controversy

Journalist Yashar Ali wrote that this was the print cover that the Harris team hoped for and that, like internet commentators, his people weren’t happy with the more casual version. We considered that Vogue he was acting in bad faith. However, according to people familiar with the arrangement, the two photographs had been agreed upon in advance, from the clothes to the backdrops. However, although the portrait was considered a “cover essay” (as in magazines, the intended cover is called, but not final) and the standing photo was meant as the interior photograph, Vogue had not granted any type of contractual approval rights from the blanket to Harris. This meant that Harris’s team did not see the final choice, which was left to Vogue, and did not know that the magazine had decided to exchange the photographs.

Harris’ team declined to comment on what happened. The magazine released a statement: “To the team of Vogue She loved the images Tyler Mitchell took and felt the more laid-back image captured the authentic and approachable nature of Vice President-elect Harris. We think that’s one of the hallmarks of the Biden and Harris administration. “They are right, but not at the same time. Harris can be authentic and accessibleBut he is also on the verge of becoming the second most powerful person in the country. And, right now, the country is in the midst of a crisis and is in dire need of authority and reliability. Harris also made history, being the first vice president, black first vice president, and first vice president of South Asian descent.

No matter what happens during the Biden administration, she is a history-changing participant, someone who deserves to be on a pedestal. And while Harris isn’t the first politician in Washington to cover the Vogue United States, Yes, she is the first elected to do so. This means that the blanket is automatically a collector’s item. The image is part of the visual assessment of the country. So during Vogue He could have imagined his choice as a reflection of the modernity of the times, his decision also went against the significance of the occasion. Maybe it’s true that Harris is part of a new kind of government, but still the authority. Vogue He’s also an authority, which is probably part of the reason Harris agreed to be on their cover in the first place.

The matter would inevitably receive further consideration, which was further complicated by the unpleasant record that Vogue had on the issue of the black community. News was published on the publisher of the magazine, Anna wintourand his relationship with black staff. Previous covers featuring black women like Olympic gymnast Simone Biles criticized the magazine for its lack of black photographers and for failing to understand how to use light when photographing black women. All this filtered through the lens of the systemic racism in this country, ensured that the magazine’s portrayal of Harris was particularly controversial.

Before Harris, of course, there were women like Michelle Obama (three covers of Vogue) and Hillary Clinton (the first lady to appear on the cover of Vogue), but not Melania Trump. However, all they were first ladies when they appeared in Vogue; his job was, in part, to be the accessible side of the president. Fashion was a widely accepted part of this role. And although the cover of Vogue This isn’t Harris’ first fashion magazine cover – she also posed for Elle during the campaign – it’s her first cover since being certified as the next vice president. Style has always played a complicated role in the public imagination when it comes to our elected officials, given the history of wearing the dress as a way to undermine women.

// Kamala Harris made history and became the first vice president of the United States.

This is why there was such an extreme reaction to the cover and Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez’s photoshoot at Vanity Fair. The New York MP has been criticized for posing with expensive clothes from brands such as Loewe and Carolina Herrera, decisions which, although not hers were seen as something contrary to their political positions and they distort it. Politicians are often punished when they seem too airbrushed or seduced by the elitism associated with fashion.

And maybe that’s why world leaders like Angela Merkel and Theresa May have avoided the subject altogether. It could also be why Harris doesn’t answer questions about the clothes he wears and the designers who wore them are also refraining from comment. This is also the reason why, in the long article by Alexis Okeowo which accompanies the cover of Vogue, fashion is hardly mentioned. Yet we remain very interested in the images conveyed by our leaders and role models, and this continues to influence our own understanding of what authority looks like and how identity evolves. Harris’ choice is personal to many. Any cover was also going to be considered personally. And while no one was happy with that or the reaction, it did help reveal how much we care about the matter.

Por Vanessa Friedman, © 2021 The New York Times Company.