In photos: it is the city of Leptis Magna, jewel of the Roman Empire forgotten in Libya

Argentina



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Visit this ancient Roman city on the southern coast of the eastern Mediterranean "a journey through time, an immersion in history", says Abdesalam Ueba, a Libyan visitor in his sixties
Visiting this ancient Roman city on the southern Mediterranean coast is “a trip back in time, an immersion in history”, explains Abdesalam Ueba, a Libyan visitor in his sixties.MAHMUD TURKEY – AFP

There is no queue at the door and only a handful of visitors, almost all Libyans, stroll among the imposing ruins of this place, declared World Heritage by Unesco.

Founded by the Phoenicians then conquered by Rome, the city was the cradle of Septimius Severus, Roman emperor between 193 and 211
Founded by the Phoenicians then conquered by Rome, the city was the cradle of Septimius Severus, Roman emperor between 193 and 211MAHMUD TURKEY – AFP
"Leptis Magna is magnificent, the most beautiful Roman site outside Italy", assured a 34-year-old tourist and added: "And yet it was hardly discovered"
“Leptis Magna is magnificent, the most beautiful Roman site outside of Italy,” said a 34-year-old tourist, adding: “And yet it has hardly been discovered.”MAHMUD TURKEY – AFP

The monarch waged military campaigns throughout Europe and present-day Iraq before dying in York, England, far from his hometown, to which he devoted considerable resources.

Sitting on a hill with stunning views of the Mediterranean, the ruins include a basilica, a running track, and a 15,000-seat theater with vaulted terraces overlooking the sea.

There was almost no tourism in Libya under Gaddafi, whose government from 1969 to 2011 depended on the country's vast oil wealth
There was almost no tourism in Libya under Gaddafi, whose government from 1969 to 2011 depended on the country’s vast oil wealthMAHMUD TURKEY – AFP

The violence that swept through Libya after the revolt that toppled dictator Muammar Gaddafi sparked fears for the city’s ruins and led the UN’s cultural agency, UNESCO, to place them on a list of the heritage in danger, along with four other Libyan sites.

But so far, the sites have not been affected by the fighting, which ended in a ceasefire in October 2020.

Sanctions and strained international relations also spooked visitors
Sanctions and strained international relations also spooked visitors
MAHMUD TURKEY – AFP

“There have been no direct attacks or threats against Leptis Magna despite the conflict,” said Azzedin al Fakih, head of the antiques department.

But it faces another threat: the lack of resources and support from the government. “In 2020, we were finally able to launch projects that should have been completed 50 years ago,” he added, citing sanitary facilities, offices and a perimeter fence.

“But archaeological excavations have stopped and maintenance operations are hasty and superficial,” he admitted.

Now, the cessation of violence for more than a year has raised hopes that the country can move forward
Now, the cessation of violence for more than a year has raised hopes that the country can move forwardMAHMUD TURKEY – AFP

Gaddafi began issuing tourist visas in 2003, and even created a tourism ministry when the country began to improve relations with the West.

But it all ended in 2011, when a NATO-backed uprising overthrew and killed Gaddafi.

View of the columns with the old theater in the background
View of the columns with the old theater in the backgroundMAHMUD TURKEY – AFP

Omar Hdidan, a civil engineer who works as a volunteer to promote and maintain Leptis Magna, is confident in its tourism potential.

“She has always been abandoned by the state,” said the 49-year-old.

“There are no excavations, no new discoveries, no campaigns to promote tourism, but Leptis Magna is worth more than ten oil wells.”

View of the market with a "macellum" circular (internal market)
View of the market with a circular “macellum” (internal market)MAHMUD TURKEY – AFP

Leptis Magna “could be a source of income if well managed”.

“It could create thousands of jobs, welcome millions of tourists and generate billions of dollars. The day will come when the oil will run out, but Leptis Magna will remain ”, say the authorities

An image shows arches with sculpted gorgonian heads surrounding the Severin Forum, in the ancient Roman city of Leptis
An image shows arches with sculpted gorgonian heads surrounding the Severin Forum, in the ancient Roman city of LeptisMAHMUD TURKEY – AFP
The aerial view shows the remains of the semi-circular theater and the Chalcidicum, beyond which is the market, and the Forum and the Basilica of Severan
The aerial view shows the remains of the semi-circular theater and the Chalcidicum, beyond which is the market, and the Forum and the Basilica of SeveranMAHMUD TURKEY – AFP
Leptis Magna on the Libyan coast was once one of the most beautiful towns in the Roman Empire, but is now abandoned and shunned by tourists due to a decade of war
Leptis Magna on the Libyan coast was once one of the most beautiful towns in the Roman Empire, but is now abandoned and shunned by tourists due to a decade of warMAHMUD TURKEY – AFP
An image shows a general view of the marble columns looking towards the Nymphaeum in the background
An image shows a general view of the marble columns looking towards the Nymphaeum in the backgroundMAHMUD TURKEY – AFP
Few tourists walking under the arch of Sptimus Severus
Few tourists walking under the arch of Sptimus SeverusMAHMUD TURKEY – AFP
An aerial image shows a view of the theater of the ancient Roman city of Leptis Magna
An aerial image shows a view of the theater of the ancient Roman city of Leptis MagnaMAHMUD TURKEY – AFP

Photos: Mahmud Turkia / AFP

Photo edition: Fernanda Corbani

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