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The way Layne Beachley describes being in the ocean makes it seem like it is an almost religious experience.
"By diving into the ocean, I feel that feeling of being cleansed from the head up to the feet … almost as if it was cleansing my mind, my body and my soul," she says. .
"It's a place where I feel connected, it's a place where I feel a sense of freedom.
"And as a self-confessed control maniac, it's a great place to go – because it's a much stronger force than me."
Beachley, who has won seven global surfing titles before retiring from professional surfing in 2008, is widely regarded as one of the most successful surfers in history.
But his stay in the ocean has brought him more than just professional success. Surfer, she says, has "sometimes saved [her] life".
"By the mid-1990s, I was diagnosed with chronic fatigue syndrome, and it was a very difficult time because I did not want to acknowledge that I was sick," she says.
"I found myself in a state of depression … I was thinking of ways to end my day on a daily basis."
After seeking the help of a professional and making a "total mental, physical and emotional commitment to [her] health ", Beachley went back to surfing.
"It's the desire to surf again that kept me alive in the darkest and deepest moments of my life," she says.
"Surfer gives me that good dose of perspective and balance in life.If I ever feel overwhelmed, I know I have stayed too long away from the ocean."
Surf as therapy
Beachley describes herself as a "big fan" of surfing as a form of therapy.
"You enter it, you free yourself from the fears, anxieties or pressures of life … and that really gets you into your own state of being."
Kris Primacio, chief executive of the International Organization of Surf Therapy (ISTO), said the idea of surfing therapy was to integrate therapeutic services with "intrinsically motivating" activity surf.
"Every surf therapy program takes a structured approach to surfing for therapeutic benefit," she says.
"The programs have been developed to cure mental and physical illness through navigation, so we improve the self-efficacy of the participants and provide them with a sense of accomplishment."
Surf therapy programs typically involve conversation-based group therapy led by a mental health practitioner or informal peer support, followed by an individual surf instruction.
"We do not really reinvent the wheel – there is a creative art therapy, a horse therapy, a music therapy … we will follow the path traced by the therapy through the experience "said Ms. Primacio.
Waves of Wellness is an Australian organization of surfotherapy that organizes programs for people with mental health issues.
Christine Bagley-Jones, a Brisbane psychologist, says that although surfing is not a formally recognized model of therapy, the incorporation of physical activity into the treatment of mental health may have a negative impact. huge benefits.
"Our physical health is very closely related to our mental health, and vice versa.If we do not feel good mentally, it's a good idea to start exploring how we take care of our body," she says. .
"Surf therapy is very much interested in the physiological components of mental health."
She adds that in addition to the benefits of physical activity, surfing – and other forms of exercise – can help bring a person to the present, creating a sense of mindfulness.
"It allows us to be distracted from things that could bother us, to get a change of perspective," she says.
"With surf therapy, you have to be 100% focused on the current activity … and as long as you are fully focused on what you are doing, you can not stay or engage in anxious or depressed thinking."
The ILO works with 30 over-the-counter organizations around the world, including two Australian women. Participants in surf therapy include traumatized youth, youth with autism, the physically challenged, and people with post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD).
"Surfing is such a physical activity – it creates strength and balance – but it also boosts self-confidence," said Ms. Primacio.
"We know that physical activity reduces our stress and can reduce our anxiety. Research is underway around the world … to determine if people are benefiting from the therapeutic benefit of the ocean, and more specifically surfing. "
Programs for PTSD
Last year, the US Navy launched a $ 1 million research project to study the therapeutic potential of surfing for military personnel suffering from PTSD, depression or sleep disorders.
It follows research by Los Angeles-based occupational therapist Carly Rogers, who has studied the therapeutic benefits of surfing after having a positive impact on her mental health.
Dr. Rogers designed a surf therapy program in 2004 (which has since been used as the basis for many programs) and undertook a small study of veterans with symptoms of PTSD.
"Our participants attended five sessions and found that they had decreased their self-reported post-traumatic stress and depression symptoms," she says.
"We also saw an increase in their attendance rate … which shows a real preference for this treatment."
Michael Burge, director of the Australian College of Trauma Treatment, said that exercise has long been considered an effective adjunctive treatment "to reduce stress and trauma."
With regard to the treatment of PTSD, he explains that group activities such as surfing can be particularly useful because of their social aspects.
"Social isolation is well known to be a post-traumatic stress disorder, and people often feel strange and strange because of backtracking," Burge said.
"When they engage in sports, it helps to reduce their isolation: they have a sense of fellowship with other surfers … and that can help dramatically."
Surfing eliminates obstacles to traditional therapy
One Wave organizes weekly events' Fluro Friday & # 39; on Australian beaches to raise awareness of mental health.
Occupational Therapist Joel Pilgrim is the Executive Director of Waves of Wellness, which runs surf therapy programs for people with mental health issues.
He adds that integrating surfing into clinical therapy can help eliminate some of the hurdles that people face when they need mental health support.
"Many people are afraid of traditional services because they do not want to be badociated with stigma," he said.
The Waves of Wellness workshops were inspired by Mr. Pilgrim's work with One Wave, a non-profit surfing community that recently made the headlines when Prince Harry and Meghan Markle joined the group at Bondi Beach in Sydney to raise awareness about mental health.
"The idea of being able to go out and focus on your physical health is absolutely essential to maintaining positive mental health," said Pilgrim.
"It's not just about being close to nature … it's also about being able to disconnect from the trauma that life can often inflict on us."
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