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"Has been", tobacco? The unconventional Jean Paul Gaultier made dance-volutes -virtuelles- cigarette, in his haute couture collection fall-winter 2018-2019 which played with the idea of smoking, Wednesday the last day of the parades in Paris. fashion designer, who upset the fashion of the 1980s, has always loved the transgression. The cigarette, against which the world health authorities lead the war, inspired him jewels: necklace, earring, bracelet.
Images of smoke volutes are projected on the white curtain from which the models and the parade opens on the song "Cigarette" of Jacques Higelin, disappeared last April. The final, watery green organza wedding dress also evokes a cloud of vanishing tobacco.
Other dresses are all sinuosities. The models here hold a pipe, there a cigarette holder, or an electronic cigarette. In this collection where male silhouettes were numerous, tobacco opponents are also present, wearing a fur sweater or mask, message "no smoking".
A play on words with the tuxedo, central element of this collection essentially black and white, declined to infinity.
The designer also wanted to send a message of "freedom": "the freedom we should have, to smoke or not to smoke," he told AFP. "We're in a pretty civilized world," he says.
Irony of the calendar, French Health Minister Agnès Buzyn described the tobacco as "has been" that morning, adding that smoking was "more in the air of time."
– "Nipples free" –
Freedom for Jean Paul Gaultier is also expressed with the message "bad free" or "free the nipple", inscribed on bustiers of transparent plastic, worn on the skin by a man and a woman.
"Men have the right to be shirtless, why should not women have the right?", launches he.
"I do not say that I must, I am for corsets and bras! But the woman may not wear!", Continues the designer, referring to a "scandalous incident" "during which a girl was summoned by the management of her high school in Florida for not wearing a bra under her sweatshirt.
But the designer has provided plastic protections to" show that you can walk bare bads without wanting to be attacked and badaulted. "
Another star of the collection, the fez. Directed by the British hatter Stephen Jones, this traditional headdress red felt truncated cone, headdress of many heads. Silhouettes of riders on the podium, with pants and riding boots.
The couturier, known for his art of cutting clothes, likes to make shorts out of shorts, using the rest to make boots. A red-haired mannequin, wearing a swirling blue tulle dress, recalls Yvette Horner, queen of the accordion and popular balls, and friend of Jean Paul Gaultier, who died in June.
Among the celebrities at the forefront of the Parade included the musician Nile Rodgers, whom Jean Paul Gaultier called for his show "Fashion Freak Show", which evokes his own career and should be played from October 2 at the Folies Bergere in Paris. Also present was the filmmaker Tonie Marshall, with whom the designer co-directs the staging.
The director has entrusted Jean Paul Gaultier with her "admiration for always for creativity". In her parades, "I always saw something that was beyond fashion, a way to dramatize, to think," she told AFP.
The show "will tell his story life, and how he has counted in the evolution of the mentality of many people, on gender, on freedom, on transgression. "
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