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Many had found him dead, destined for a place in forgetting fashion on all fours. But this week, something very unexpected happens on the Parisian podium: the old stuffy suit is back.
Shows after suits and tailored jackets have laid the foundation for business uniformity. It was not supposed to be like that.
Long eclipsed on male catwalks by supposedly more practical sports and city clothes, it was thought that the suit was slowly going in the direction of the doublet and trousers.
"There is the story that says that sewing is dead, that sportswear defines the tastes of youth – and you see it in the street" Vogue The critic Luke Leitch said.
"It was badumed that men no longer wanted to" wear seam at work, "he explained, adding," Because it's not always comfortable, and that's always badociated with their fathers ".
However, the trend oscillating between streetwear and sportswear for several seasons now, this week in Paris and, to a certain extent, in Milan, we have witnessed a profusion of outfits.
"All of a sudden, everyone thinks," I'm thinking about the question of sewing. How can we introduce it in the future? Said Leitch.
"Couture of the 21st century"
He is the greatest streetwear guru of all, Louis Vuitton's Virgil Abloh, the most fashionable property in fashion.
The first Afro-American to run a major French luxury brand, he sent rappers in suits and ties to the star show of his own brand Off-White.
"I'm still the streetwear guy," Abloh told the press, complaining of being stereotyped.
"But … in the culture, you're supposed to lead," he said.
And that's what Dior Homme's best Kim Jones designers try to do with Dries Van Noten, Junya Watanabe and Sean Suen with the suit and jacket in Paris.
It's all about personalizing the 21st century "more now," Jones said.
The British master of luxury clothing, said he wanted to make "the clbadic black suit Dior a little cooler and a little more fashionable".
Balmain, a star of the pop star, also synthesized the jacket and clbadic two-piece. Givenchy also plunges into high-end menswear.
Even the American avant-garde Rick Owens, the grandfather of the oversized trend, who has seen men wrapped in large duvet coats in recent seasons, has returned to the waistcoat.
His glam rock collection on "the glory of lust and vice" was elegant, bady and very masculine.
One can expect more of the same from superstar designer Hedi Slimane – the "sultan of the slim" – when presenting Celine's first men's collection.
Slimane has always been a staunch supporter of couture, as was Kris Van Assche, who presented his first collection for the luxury men's outfitter Berluti after more than a decade at Dior.
The latest Dior costumes would be a little cooler and a little more fashionable.
Silver Swagger
"Rather than accepting that everyone wants to wear sweatshirts and jeans, I want to claim the idea of sewing, a new couture, that speaks to young people," said Van Assche, just before take his new position.
The Belgian is not a fan of the androgynous look that goes with more unibad and oversized clothes.
"There is nothing more beautiful than a girl in a man's suit, it's an interesting contrast," he said.
"But if men's clothes become feminine, we lose the contrast," he added.
Like Van Assche, the Japanese veteran Watanabe used older models for his merry show "Silver Swagger". It's inspired by the way middle-aged hipsters can blackmail a suit by blending tight-fitting blazers, tweed jackets and turned jeans.
Again VogueLeitch wonders if the trend will change much in the real world. Designers have a "romantic attachment to sewing," he said.
"He has his own language and it's a great pleasure to go back and play with the codes."
At a time when "a child from Albuquerque can have as many tastes on Instagram as Dior," said Mr. Leitch, the street is now setting the tone for what most of us wear.
Still, Ermenegildo Zegna, "reputed to be the world's largest costume company, earning billions every year," recently bought Thom Browne, the bespoke and brilliantly-made American brand presented in Paris yesterday.
"No matter what type of person installs the zeitgeist, the market is there," Leitch said. – AFP
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