A UNESCO World Heritage Site in Ethiopia overrun by rebels



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Rebels from Ethiopia’s war-stricken Tigray region invaded Lalibela on Thursday, raising fears for the safety of the UNESCO World Heritage site famous for its 12th-century rock-hewn churches.

The push by the Popular Front for the Liberation of Tigray (TPLF) in Afar and Amhara regions – where Lalibela is located – is the latest turning point in a months-long conflict between Prime Minister Abiy Ahmed and the rebels.

As concern over the violence grows and calls multiply to protect Lalibela, here are some facts about the heritage site:

Underground churches

Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978, the churches of Lalibela are unique. They are hewn into the rock and lie below ground level, surrounded by deep, dry moats, of which only their roofs are visible.

The Church of St. George is one of the religious treasures that were carved out of the rock centuries ago.  By EDUARDO SOTERAS (AFP) The Church of St. George is one of the religious treasures that were carved out of the rock centuries ago. By EDUARDO SOTERAS (AFP)

The courtyards surrounding these extraordinary places of worship are only accessible by stairs and tunnels.

Chiseled in monolithic blocks, the churches are full of ornate motifs and windows carved in the shape of a cross.

The complex is also home to an intricate system of passages, some of which lead to caves and catacombs.

Built by angels

Lalibela, located 680 kilometers (420 miles) north of Addis Ababa, takes its name from King Gebre Mesqel Lalibela.

Ethiopian Orthodox pilgrims during Christmas Eve celebrations at St. George's Church, January 6, 2019. By EDUARDO SOTERAS (AFP) Ethiopian Orthodox pilgrims during Christmas Eve celebrations at St. George’s Church, January 6, 2019. By EDUARDO SOTERAS (AFP)

According to local tradition, the monarch built 11 churches with the help of angels after God ordered him to create a “New Jerusalem”.

Lalibela is a popular destination for foreign tourists and followers of the Ethiopian Orthodox faith, the country’s largest religion.

Threats

Lalibela is no stranger to threats. Long before the site was caught in the sights of the Tigray conflict, its rocky composition made it vulnerable to the impact of erosion from the intense rainy season in Ethiopia.

A decision in 2008 to erect huge tarp shields to prevent rain from entering historic churches sparked additional concern among worshipers, with many fearing the shelters would collapse and cause irreparable damage to the site. .

Conservatives say the screens, supported by thick metal poles, are designed to sway rather than strain to the point of breaking in windy weather, but that has done little to allay residents’ concerns .

Restoration projects

Protection: A screen protecting the House of the Savior of the World from erosion.  By EDUARDO SOTERAS (AFP) Protection: A screen protecting the House of the Savior of the World from erosion. By EDUARDO SOTERAS (AFP)

In 2019, French President Emmanuel Macron visited Lalibela and agreed to fund a plan to restore churches as well as maintain tarpaulin screens until more permanent restoration is done on damaged structures. .

This could pave the way for the shelters to be replaced with lighter structures, possibly opening and closing depending on the weather, while repairs are carried out.

Stolen cross

Lalibela was the subject of a massive manhunt two decades ago, when an 11th century brass cross known as Afro Ayigeba was stolen from the site, sparking the fury of Ethiopians who have a deep attachment to the artifact.

After a two-year search on several continents, the sacred cross was finally found. It had ended up in the hands of a Belgian collector, who had bought it in good faith for $ 25,000 from a dealer in Addis Ababa.

Weeks later, he returned to his rightful place in Lalibela, with thousands of pilgrims, villagers and officials attending his return ceremony.

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