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Eleven restaurants run by women have been added to the 2019 guide to the best food in France, out of a record 75 new additions awarded with one, two or three Michelin stars.
Julia Sedefdjian, a 24-year-old girl, won a star for her new restaurant, Baieta, while Stephanie Le Quellec won second place for the Parisian restaurant La Scene.
The 2018 French guide was marked by a virtual absence of women: only two women leaders were present, both in partnership with male colleagues. A year earlier, only one woman was among the 70 new additions to the list of "stars".
The new international director of the guide, Gwendal Poullennec, had promised to breathe new life into his pages this year, celebrating young talent as well as female leaders.
"This reflects the great dynamism of French gastronomy, in all regions, with institutions set up by talented young people who are often entrepreneurs who have taken risks," said Poullennec.
Poullennec pointed out in an interview with AFP last week that Michelin critics were working in no "quota" or "lowering criteria", but had simply sought to select a more diverse range of restaurants this year, both in profile terms of chefs and style of cooking.
A large number of international chefs are also honored, including many Japanese, while Argentinean Mauro Colagreco has become the only foreigner to hold three stars in France.
"So many emotions, thank you, I'm so honored," said the 42-year-old, whose Mirazur restaurant, located on the prestigious Cote d 'Azur, was ranked fourth in the world. last year on the list of the 50 best restaurants in the world.
Chef Laurent Petit congratulated Michelin's formidable critics for having "the meaning" of awarding him a third star for the restaurant Le Clos des Sens in Annecy.
"I'm delighted to have won a third star with endive roots and a cabbage pie – simple, simple, simple," he said.
In one of the most important shocks, the famous alpine chef Marc Veyrat lost his third star, as well as the Auberge de L'Ill, an Alsatian restaurant with three stars for 51 years.
"It's hard for the team, it's hard for everyone – the customers, the family," said its leader Marc Haeberlin on France 3 Alsace television.
"I do not know how to explain this loss," said Haeberlin, whose family has run an inn in Alsace for 150 years.
Veyrat, known as much for his well-known black broad-brimmed hat as for his love of mountain grbades, is said to be "terribly disappointed" with the degradation of his restaurant, the Wood House.
"I do not understand at all," said Veyrat, calling it "unfair" the decision.
Unwanted Stars
A chef who shocked the culinary world in 2017 by renouncing his Michelin stars was surprised to find himself in the prestigious guide for 2019.
Sébastien Bras spoke of the "enormous pressure" badociated with Michelin's recognition when he asked in September 2017 that his three-star restaurant, Le Suquet, be excluded from the 2018 guide.
Michelin has acquiesced. Claire Dorland Clauzel, then head of the brand, told AFP: "It is difficult for us to have a restaurant in the guide who does not wish to be there."
The following year, Bras spent his time preparing inventive French cuisine in his restaurant in the town of Laguiole, in the rural region of Aveyron, without worrying about whether he was complying with the rules. rigorous standards of Michelin.
But on Monday, the 47-year-old said he was "surprised" to see the restaurant back in the guide, with two stars.
"This contradictory decision left us with doubts, even if in any case we no longer worry about the stars or the strategies of the guide," he said in a statement sent to AFP.
Bras took over the kitchen of his father Michel au Suquet ten years ago.
The former Bras had been awarded three Michelin stars since 1999, and his son said that knowing that only one sub-par could cost him his reputation had created an unbearable pressure as a chef. .
"You are inspected two or three times a year, you never know when," he told AFP in 2017.
"This means that every day, one of the 500 meals that comes out of the kitchen can be judged."
"Maybe I will be less famous, but I accept that," he said following his abandonment of the Michelin guide.
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