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Once among the most beautiful cities of the Roman Empire, Leptis Magna is neglected and shunned by tourists after a decade of war, but some see its potential for rebirth.
There is no line at the gate and only a handful of visitors, almost all Libyans, wander among the towering ruins of the UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Visiting the region, a former Roman outpost on the southern Mediterranean coast, is “a trip back in time, a dive into history”, enthuses Abdessalam Oueba, a Libyan visitor in his sixties.
An aerial view of the theater which could accommodate up to 15,000 spectators on vaulted terraces overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. By Mahmud TURKIA (AFP) Founded by the Phoenicians and then conquered by Rome, the city was the birthplace of Septimius Severus, who became emperor from 193 to 211.
The ruler waged military campaigns across Europe and into present-day Iraq before dying in York, England, far from the hometown on which he had lavished resources.
Perched on a hill with breathtaking views of the Mediterranean, the well-preserved ruins include a large basilica, a racecourse and a theater that can seat up to 15,000 spectators on vaulted terraces overlooking the sea.
Thin marble columns lined the stage of the theater. By Mahmud TURKIA (AFP) Among the few passing tourists is Ihab, from Tripoli, who made the 120-kilometer (75-mile) journey to show his children a site he had visited during his own childhood.
“Leptis Magna is magnificent, the most beautiful Roman site outside Italy,” said the 34-year-old doctor under a clear blue sky.
“Yet it was hardly discovered.”
‘Negligence’
The violence that rocked Libya after the 2011 uprising that toppled dictator Muammar Gaddafi sparked fears for the ancient ruins, prompting the United Nations cultural agency, UNESCO, to place them, along with four other sites Libyans, on a list of World Heritage in Danger.
Carved detail of the Arch of Septimius Severus, which bears the name of the Roman Emperor who was born in Leptis Magna and who lavished resources on his hometown. By Mahmud TURKIA (AFP) But so far, most areas have been untouched by the fighting, which has largely come to an end since an October 2020 ceasefire.
“There have been no direct attacks or threats against Leptis Magna, despite the conflict,” said Azeddine al-Fakih, head of the site’s antiques department.
Yet it faces other threats: the lack of resources and government support.
“In 2020, we were finally able to launch projects that should have been completed 50 years ago,” he said, listing sanitary facilities, offices and a perimeter fence.
Azeddine al-Fakih, head of the antiques department at Leptis Magna, sees the tourist and economic potential of the ruins – Libyan oil will run out one day “but Leptis Magna will stay”. By Mahmud TURKIA (AFP) “But archaeological digs have stopped, and maintenance operations are rushed and superficial.”
Fakih admitted that after 10 years of conflict and state collapse, Libya’s current national unity government “has bigger problems to deal with.”
There was hardly any tourism in Libya under Gaddafi, whose reign from 1969 to 2011 depended heavily on the country’s vast oil wealth.
Strained foreign relations and sanctions have also discouraged foreign visitors.
Gaddafi first started issuing tourist visas in 2003 and even created a tourism ministry as the regime began to mend its ties with the West.
But it all ended in 2011, when a NATO-backed revolt toppled and killed Gaddafi, plunging the country into years of chaos.
More valuable than oil
Now, a year-long lull in violence has raised hopes the country can move forward.
Leptis Magna is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. By Mahmud TURKIA (AFP) Omar Hdidan, a civil engineer volunteering to promote and maintain Leptis Magna, believes in its tourism potential.
“It has always been overlooked by the state,” said the 49-year-old.
“There are no excavations, no new discoveries, no campaign to encourage tourism. But Leptis Magna is worth more than 10 oil wells.”
Fakih agreed.
Leptis Magna “could be a source of income if it was well managed,” he said.
“It could create thousands of jobs, welcome millions of tourists and bring in billions of dollars. There will come a day when the oil runs out, but Leptis Magna will stay.”
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