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"Is the show for giant dresses?", Was the question posed in the fashion world this week. Tomo Koizumi is the designer and yes, the dresses are huge. But writing Koizumi as a confectioner is a short-term vision. At Madison Avenue's Marc Jacobs store, where Koizumi staged her first fashion show, organized with the help of Katie Grand, Guido Palau, Pat McGrath, Jin Soon, Anita Bitton and a cast of her courage.
Grand had orchestrated the whole affair after discovering Koizumi on Instagram through his friend Giles Deacon. Koizumi arrived in the United States just five days ago – his second time in New York – with three boxes of clothes, some new, some from his archives. He settled in Marc Jacobs' studio in Soho, where his fluorescent polyester organza pieces were reliving their journey around the world. In preview, Koizumi explained his complex inspirations ranging from Capucci to Lee Bowery, through Hanawa, a Japanese funeral banner decorated with plastic floral motifs. He also loves Sailor Moon and the idea that a woman can be both cute and strong. His pieces are geometrically constructed; a sleeve can be a circle or a skirt a rectangle, no more striking than the blue disc with holes for arms and legs that turns the wearer into a blue moon. He describes his ruffles as a type of armor; Unsurprisingly, he has been successful in dressing pop stars and actresses in his homeland.
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