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Before the pandemic, Valentino ready-to-wear parades in Paris were typically held in a stylish tent – a metaphor for the fashion bubble, a gated community of media and retail professionals, VIPs and ‘influencers.
For spring 2022, Pierpaolo Piccioli moved to Carreau du Temple, a former market building in the lively and trendy Marais district, and set up nearby pop-ups selling vegan sneakers, flowers, beauty products and clothing. pro-vaccine t-shirts. His young models walked across the room, seated at cafe tables, then paraded down rue Dupetit-Thouars, offering Parisians sitting on restaurant terraces a view as good as Charli D’Amelio and Noah Beck, who stood by hand for much of the show.
The ivory towers of fashion are being toppled, and Piccioli is energized – and challenged – to hang an upcoming sign on the Roman fashion house.
“My challenge is to make the brand relevant for this moment without losing the codes of the house,” he said during a preview. “But I don’t think you have to do streetwear to embrace a different world.”
Instead, Piccioli used washed taffeta for Bermuda shorts, anoraks, bomber jackets, and shirts, garments that can be worn by both sexes casually, but with the benefit of one of the colourists. the most talented in fashion.
The designer imagined young people discovering a cache of old couture, and tinkering with clothes, adapting them to the urban life of the 2020s.
Or not. Piccioli also selected a handful of articles from the archives of founder Valentino Garavani and didn’t change them all at once. But an old-fashioned floral-print blouse takes on a different character on a boy, as does a poppy-adorned tea dress when worn by a goth-looking girl with combat boots.
Picciolio noted that Garavani had done a street casting himself when he debuted jeans in 1985, showing vintage black and white advertising – depicting a young man with a six pack seductively lounging his pants off unbuttoned, one hand clutching an apple – stamped above the two back pockets.
The streetwear vibe was achieved without sneakers or logos, telegraphed by the diverse cast of ‘real people’, flat gladiator sandals and freestyle, faded jeans dulling the dressy allure of ethereal and frothy white blouses, or densely embroidered feather duster.
Piccioli favored simple clothes like shirts – covered in feathers, or oversized and cut in washed taffeta – and pajamas, printed with graphic flowers.
The accessories were terrific, hinged on puffy Rockstuds punctuating the little handbags and giving all kinds of flats a punk vibe.
Piccioli noted that rockstuds, which helped Valentino become a major prop player, originated from the gates of Roman palaces and may well be adopted by the TikTok generation as funky props.
“It’s interesting to see something that you already know with different eyes, with a different perspective,” he reflected.
Ditto her spring clothes, which had a grandeur that was ingrained.
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