What not to wear if you are a man over 50 | Fashion

SWith his personal experience, 2017 has been a difficult year. Two major events have revolutionized my world. In January, I was 50 years old (for those who have not yet reached the half-century, let me clarify one thing: age is do not and in December, having been in London for more than 30 years, I moved to the Kent coast in search of a more rewarding and peaceful existence. OK, so at first glance you may well say that both are obviously intrinsically linked. This is enough. As we age, we all aspire to a slower pace of life, right? Correct. But the collision of these two events opened a Pandora's box that I did not see coming.

It was time to downsize and, in the interest of age and avoid having to book an even bigger moving truck, to change my wardrobe uncontrollably. Working as a fashion editor for over three decades literally accompanies a lot of luggage. There is endless pressure to follow trends. And it comes at a price if, like me, you are an accumulator – and, in my experience, most men are. After four days, I shared my loot in "action" stacks – one to keep, one for charity, one to go home, one to sell on eBay – it became clear to me that 50 was not the new 40. It was traumatically, the finish line for half of what I possessed and, if I am brutally honest, still wore.

Pbading the wrong side of a half-centenary turns out to be a turning point: you are forced to make decisions about what you should not, and not if, to wear. Many men entering middle age fall into one of the two camps (with a minority that bridges the gap): those who have abandoned and those who do not know when to abandon, the old me falling uncomfortably in the last. . I understand that now.

The first to touch the bridge are my combat trousers, which seem to reproduce if left alone in a dark closet. I have lived in fights in the 1990s and 2000s, quietly eliminating them and giving them only an unusual appearance in recent years. In fact, all pants too big, with too many pockets or zippers, or too decorated on the surface, are definitely prohibited. And even if we're talking about wardrobe staples that have a military heritage, any camouflage print must also bend gracefully.

My advice is to keep things simple in the pants department, with a casual / formal touch – it's fashion that speaks for more casual than a suit pants but more presentable than a pajama . I am thinking here of a clbadic jean cut made in a luxury fabric, as opposed to jeans, or a chino with a confused mind, which is neither too box-ready nor preppy. Margaret Howell makes medium-sized trousers (a faded cotton blended chino will cost around 165 euros), as does the Mecca of Swedish basic basics, Arket, which offers trousers ranging from 60 to 90 pounds (I'm a big fan of pants). casual jogging).

Another item I seemed to have in abundance was the Converse Jack Purcell sneakers, keeping a pair in almost every color imaginable. After years of thinking that these were a more appropriate alternative to a coach for an older man, they suddenly became a harbinger of a person desperately trying to hang on to them. youth. Reaching 50 years does not mean that the sneakers are over – the best solution is to swap your shoes and opt for a pair of unbranded quality shoes, from the Common Projects brand, Harrys of London (you can not go wrong). with the Nimble at £ 295) or Grenson, who have all mastered the smart hybrid shoe-to-sneakers. You can also, on the spot, get away with an Adidas Stan Smith to help soften the contours of the business if you want a shoe that suits the seam.

A philosophy to adopt throughout your wardrobe is that less, it's more (both stylistically and quantitatively). Now that the time to follow the trends is happily over, it is better to have a number of investments that cost a little more and will last longer than landfilling cheaper alternatives.

Another mistake men make is to keep things for decades, believing that they will come back into fashion. In theory, it is true: we are talking about a revival of the 90s. But beware, these awakenings are intended for the younger generation. Bucket hats, anoraks and fleece tops that look great for children should be given a large place. You will not be able to look like a man on the screen – you'll simply look like someone who has been trapped in the Britpop era. Baseball caps (I'm just going to say one thing … Forrest Gump), skinny jeans, parkas and Hawaiian shirts are also listed as "abandoned". Instead, steer your inner Richard Burton and make friends with turtlenecks, Harrington-style jackets (Oliver Spencer is the master), and soft-tweed camisoles and coats. Private White VC is a brand that knows how to make it properly. Comfort is important but does not mean touching the default switch and wearing sportswear that is not appropriate for age, or even worse, giving the impression that you have completely abandoned fashion.

Another inappropriate age alert: nothing on an e-commerce website preceded by the word "daddy" – like dad's sneakers or dad's jeans (cue Balenciaga) – is not a green light for you to get credit card. The word is used ironically, to describe something your father would have worn, and should be avoided. The impression you should give is a man of the world who has lived and made intelligent and experienced choices: a man who does not need to follow the whole movement, but who is in control, happy with his fate and confident.

Going to the coast was my choice, being 50 years old was inevitable – but at least a wardrobe in the bag, I can control with elegance my decision to live it.

What men should wear

In tip
Go for the sewing. Apparently, corporate suits should give way to lighter blazers in softer, more casual fabrics. Lacoste manufactures a superb jacket that gives the impression of wearing a cardigan (lacoste.com), but that still looks to be a business, just like the Mr. Porter, Mr. P brand. (mrporter.com), which is also excellent at all levels for men of a certain age. Navy Blue Unstructured Jersey Blazer, £ 425, Mr P (mrporter.com)

The feet first
Comfortable shoes, as you get older, are a necessity. But finding the balance between casual and formal can be tricky. The rule of thumb is a rubber sole, with a premium leather upper. Brands such as Grenson (grenson.com), which offers a stellar version of chestnut color, or the minimalist street Cos (cosstores.com) have nailed the balance. Hand-painted calfskin sneakers, € 170, grenson.com

Do not sweat
Knit turtlenecks should be at the top of your list of basics. They are a great way to introduce color into your wardrobe – just be careful. John Smedley (johnsmedley.com) has a very good lineup, as does the good old driver Marks & Spencer (marksandspencer.com). Hawley turtleneck sweater in cotton from the sea islands, 145 €, johnsmedley.com

Chino challenge
Opt for chino pants dyed in a garment, giving a more lively patina. Jigsaw cuts perfectly (jigsaw-online.com), just like Joseph (joseph-fashion.com) if you do not mind paying a bit. Do not cut them too close to the ankle, as young children do. Slim fit stretch chino, 85 euros, jigsaw-online.com

One-stop shop
For all that's right for you, go to Oliver Spencer. His timeless clothes are reminiscent of seasonal trends while holding the reins and his stores are a one-stop shop for us, the older guys. My favorite piece is the Waltham Jacket. Waltham Jacket in Keeley Oatmeal, £ 329, oliverspencer.co.uk

Perfect perfumes
Any man who enters the golden age should invest in a less "tax-free" perfume of Gatwick and more "niche". Anything with woody notes like vetiver is usually a treat for the crowd, and clbadic perfumers such as Creed (creedfragrances.co.uk) or Tom Daxon offer iconic products. Absolute Cologne Eau de Parfum, £ 105 for 50ml, tomdaxon.com

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