In Milan, Ferragamo and Cavalli focus on color, inclusivity

MILAN (AP) – Color was the order of the day on Saturday the fourth day of mostly women's clothing collections during Milan Fashion Week.

The fashion houses Salvatore Ferragamo and Roberto Cavalli are distinguished by neutral colors while combining the premiere men and women for the autumn / winter 2019-2020. Ferragamo's color palette ranged from peacock blue to frosted sage, mauve to forest green, while the Cavalli collection turned to a mix of turquoise, magenta, ocher, saffron and sky blue.

Another trend on Milan's catwalks this season is the older models, a sign that fashion houses are focusing on lasers over the millennia and bringing them back to a major luxury demographic.

Some highlights of Saturday's shows:

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SALVATORE FERRAGAMO IS OWNER OF THE LEATHER

Salvatore Ferragamo's latest collection is inspired by the brand's legacy of sculpted heeled shoes, a new emphasis on leather ready-to-wear and many colors, combining innovation and know-how to create a new look. modern atmosphere.

The combined collections of women's and men's clothing included leather day and nightwear, going beyond coats and shoes. This included long leather skirts with a nice slit, a long black leather evening dress and a leather jumpsuit, as well as sportier combinations for him and for her.

"Being a luxury heritage brand, I feel we should have a leather garment," said Ferragamo Creative Director Paul Andrew.

A quilted Nappa leather coat with technical fabric highlights in a luxurious chocolate brown sums up the innovation of the collection.

"You take it and it's light. It was designed so that you can reduce it to nothing, "said Andrew.

The brand's iconic shoe featured a remastered sculpted heel inspired by the 1968 Fiamma Ferragama women's design and rugged men's nubuck hiking boots.

Andrew has included old models on the catwalk because "they really embody the woman I'm pursuing. In fact, Ferragamo does not dress only 17-year-old girls. We also have clients aged 30, 40, 50, 60, 70 years old. "

Andrew, who joined Ferragamo in 2016 as a shoe designer, then added Womenswear, was named this week creative director of the fashion house. He will continue the collaboration with Guillaume Meilland, head of men's fashion, both working on the segments for a complete vision.

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ROBERTO CAVALLI REINVENTE ANIMAL IMPRESSIONS

The first look of Roberto Cavalli, Artistic Director of the Creation, was an impression with the power and nuances of an Arizona sunset, giving the brand's animal drawings a new twist and a plant-like color. center of the new collection.

The collection offered women and men a sense of freedom in movement and dress. A pleated mini-dress floated in the back at night, while the knit dresses echoed the silky pleating, projecting a contemporary silhouette with stronger shoulders and a narrow bodice.

Notable pieces included dresses decorated with seashells and nails to create a rich pattern and well-fitting beaded art-deco evening dresses with cutouts to reveal an undergarment that, according to Surridge, evokes a body tattoo.

Men's coats featured exaggerated buttons and closures, while suits were dressed in colorful patterned turtlenecks under jackets and suit shirts. For the younger ones, there were ski vests over big animal print anoraks and matching tops, with the brand's new Vortex basketball.

"It's about pushing the boundaries. You have to be inclusive, not only about your body shape, but also about your age, and offer modern solutions for daytime, evening and cocktails, "said Surridge backstage.

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THE RHAPSODY OF GIORGIO ARMANI IN BLUE

Giorgio Armani has put blue accents on his elegant collection for the coming autumn and winter, with carved details reminiscent of roses or mini-cyclones.

Armani organized for the first time the combined preview of men and women in his museum Silos, which gathers and encapsulates the creations of the creator.

The feminine silhouette was elongated, accentuating the curves, while the masculine looks were strong and classic. Together, they cut an elegant evening figure. In fact, the collection presented under twilight lighting contained no strictly diurnal aspect.

For the women, the dark suits included short jackets with details of contrasting night blue woven ribbons and jodhpur-shaped pants. The long evening coats had carved necks. Belts and handbags both wore ruffles that gave the looks a voluminous accent. An iridescent rose appeared on a summit. The facades of the jackets were built to look like a rose petal. A velvet pantsuit shone.

Beyond classic suits with fitted pants and structured jackets, men can choose between a loose-fitting velvet coat and a satin-lined shirt for a looser, more casual silhouette.

Armani called the collections for men and women "complementary expressions of the same vision, united by the color blue".

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THE BLUE LIGHT OF MISSONI

Missoni's looks for the coming fall and winter have been highly stylized, providing easy access for anyone aspiring to be part of the Missoni family. The combined looks of men's and women's clothing have been shown under a blue light distribution

The women's clothing has been heavily accessorized by the woven accents of the family brand. There were delicate knit necklaces, often sparkling and slightly gathered, sleeves to accompany sleeveless tops, boots that were sometimes long enough to be scarves, and balaclavas, ubiquitous hoods, less sporty and more elegant . Knitted waist belts at the waist allow you to knit sweaters or open dresses.

The blouses were long and wraparound, often over pantsuits or pencil skirts. Combinations throw a young silhouette. The looks were finished with rolled caps.

Men's clothing was casual, with dress-like outer garments over striped knits and easy pants. A sparkling men's sweater faded from dusk to deepest night and was worn with a bright knit scarf.

"Chroma allows everyone to come back," said creative director Angela Missoni. "As such, it shows no nostalgia."