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July 10 18 | Beauty
Katie Wright asks dermatology experts how to stay protected without being spotted.
In addition to trying to tan without sunburn, and frolic in the sea without leaving salty hairs, this is one of the big dilemmas of summer beauty: How to keep your face protected from the sun without causing an acne breakout?
Unwilling to play "SPF roulette" every time we go on vacation (does that mean or not lead to one the next morning?), We decided to turn to the skin professionals to know exactly why some sunscreens are responsible for this very irritating problem, and what can be done about it. Here's what they have to say …
Why can two sunscreens cause acne? Two things can cause solar flares: pore occlusion by comedogenic materials, or a sensitivity reaction to UV blocking chemicals. Shah of Artistry Clinic (artistryclinic.co.uk). "Mineral sunscreens rest on the top of the skin and can block pores, causing stains, while chemical chemical filters can irritate the skin and create rashes."
Dr. Justine Kluk, Consultant Dermatologist at 25 Harley Street (25harleystreet.co.uk), explains: "Sunscreens have generally been very thick and greasy in the past, so we are encouraged to apply them frequently and generously to get adequate protection from them. harmful UV rays.
"While this is essential for reducing the risk of sunburn and skin cancer, the regular application of oily or occlusive products can make skin more oily, which leads to blocked pores and eventually blackheads and pimples.This can also lead to breakouts in people who already suffer from acne. "
Does the sun help dry spots ?
"It's tempting to spend sunscreen if you have acne prone skin. It can help skin by drying it out and reducing acne," says Dr. Mervyn Patterson, Founder from Woodford Medical (woodfordmedical.com). "There is an element of truth in this, as a light tan can temporarily hide red spots and in some people, oil production is reduced. Unfortunately, the effect is temporary and an increase in oil production and inflammation may occur.
"An additional problem, especially in darker skin, of exposing the acne to UV is the risk of developing what is called a hyper-inflammatory, pigmentation," he continues. . "Here, the inflammation found in the point of acne triggers melanin production by the melanocyte, so that the redness of the acne point recedes, it is replaced by a persistent brown pigmentation area .
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What kind of sunscreen should you use to prevent acne?
" The good news is that these days it There are many less fat and occlusive options available, "says Dr. Kluk. "The best advice is to look for sunscreens or sunscreen moisturizers that are not comedogenic, that is, that do not block pores." This is usually stated on the label of the product. Packaging and means that the product can be used safely to protect the skin without increasing the eruptions. "
" The formulation and ingredients of sunscreen can exacerbate your spots. "For a" physical sunscreen Rather than chemical.
"Physical sun protection avoids the need for sunscreen chemicals. Physical UV blockers are inert, that is, they do not undergo chemical reactions and act as tiny reflective particles that reflect the UV rays of our skin, "he says. "If a sunscreen contains zinc and titanium, then you can be sure that the product is a physical block.If you see ingredients ending in" zone "and" salate, "then you are looking for chemical protection." [19659015] The use of a sunscreen that has a high water resistance is also noticeable but most importantly, the formulation is critical. Many sunscreens on the market that boast a high resistance to water. Water are heavy and sticky products, likely to cause outbreaks.
Dr. Shah adds: "Many people with problems like acne or rosacea choose mineral [formulations] irritations and relapses due to the fact that sunscreen is not absorbed by the skin. "
How to apply sunscreen to prevent stains?
" For better protection, it is advisable to apply sunscreen half an hour ago. before going out in the sun. Other applications are encouraged depending on your level of activity or your swimming, and this adds up to a very large amount of potentially clogging pore ingredients, "says Dr. Patterson.
"Think differently about your face and the rest of your body because it is often the face that is most prone to stains. Find ways to reduce the amount and number of sunscreen applications by using common sense, for example by keeping your face under the umbrella and wearing a good brimmed hat. If you avoid diving under water, you will not need to reapply to your face after swimming.
5 of the best sunscreens for acne skin
Bioderma Photoderm AKN Matte SPF30, € 19.00, Boots
La Roche-Posay Anthelios Ultralight Sun Cream SPF 50+, £ 16.50, Boots
Epionce Daily Shield Tinted Lotion SPF 50, £ 45
Perfection Teoxane Shield Perfection SFP 30 , £ 48
ZO Skin Health Oclipse Daily Sheer Broad Spectrum SPF 50, £ 57 (for resellers, see zo skinhealth.co.uk)
© Press Association 2018
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