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One of the biggest trends in wine right now is the switch to "natural" wine. It is a term that has no legal definition, but generally it is considered wine that is manufactured without synthetic herbicides or pesticides and with minimal human intervention. The trendiest bars and restaurants in London, Paris, New York, Los Angeles and the Nordic countries are all very present on their wine lists. People are looking for something other than great brands, and natural wine feels like obvious progression, following trends for local, organic and wild foods.
But he also has his detractors. Due to the low intervention approach, some wines may simply be faulty, and focusing on a craft story to tell a flawed wine has sparked the justified criticism of wine experts, who are sometimes referred to as the "old" keep". In the midst of this polarizing debate is an unlikely star. Beaujolais. While many people immediately think of Beaujolais again and write it as a fruity wine that tastes like Charms (remember them?), This region of France, which is part of Burgundy, quietly begins to receive the recognition that she deserves. 19659012] With its rolling hills and gilded medieval towns like Oingt and Theizé, Beaujolais is not only pretty, but very accessible. It is also filled with old traditions, which, suddenly, are completely on the point. The old vineyards, harvested by hand, extend as far as the eye can see, with vines up to 100 years old planted in the traditional style of the bush (not trellised), tight to one meter from each other. interval and a meter wide, so the yield The gamay, red grape of Beaujolais, seems to have a happy affinity with the natural process of winemaking. In the 1950s, when synthetic chemicals were heralded as the magic answer to the fight against weeds and diseases in the vineyard, Jules Chauvet – a researcher now considered the father of natural wine – was a dissenting voice. He warned against the use of artificial chemicals, saying that they would destroy the soil. He also advocated a minimal use of sulfur in the cellar. Marcel Lapierre, winemaker Beaujolais (deceased in 2010), was fascinated after his meeting with Chauvet in 1981, and with three other winemakers – Jean Foillard, Jean-Paul Thevenet and Guy Breton – went to the traditional production of Beaujolais. Known as the "gang of four," they were soon joined by a fifth member, Yvon Metras.
The children of Marcel, Camille and Mathieu Lapierre, now run the cellar in Morgon, and during my recent trip to Beaujolais, the opportunity to visit it and one of the vineyards next to their house family, where the vines are between 40 and 110 years old. Camille explained how they had tried biodynamic farming in the vineyard, but found that it disrupted the natural yeasts they were working with. For them, it was useless since the soil had never been damaged by synthetic pesticides, so it was better to leave things as they were.
In the cellar, a little further down the road, Mathieu showed me the traditional equipment. use to make their wines. At the harvest, the whole bunches of the vineyard are carefully sorted before being put into casks, which are large wooden fermentation vats, carbon dioxide is added to fill all the remaining space and the tank is closed
here is the trick of magic science: to treat the grapes in this way, what is called carbonic maceration, means that the fermentation begins with an enzymatic transformation inside the grapes (instead of yeast) and preserves the fruity character of Gamay. It also means that the wine becomes stable at an early stage, which minimizes the need to use sulfur dioxide. Mathieu explained that when these grapes are then gently squeezed into the large traditional wooden basket, the resulting juice is called paradise, which means "paradise" or "paradise". There is so little alcohol that even children have the right to taste it. This is moved to old oak barrels where the wild yeast makes the rest of the fermentation. The wine is allowed to age for a short time, then bottled unfiltered. The result is a wine that has a pure definition of flavor that is textured and layered.
This approach to winemaking has changed the way people perceive Beaujolais – with wines, many of which are available in Ireland. A recent study that mapped the different types of soils of the Beaujolais 10 crus, ranging from friable red granite to blue volcanic rock, has attracted growing interest in the region and is attracting ambitious young winemakers. I had a particularly interesting tasting on my last day with Rémi Dufaitre, Alex Foillard and Lucas Dutraive who make spectacular wines, push the limits and learn along the way.
If you visit France and are close to Beaujolais, it is worthwhile to plan in advance to visit some of the vineyards. The Pizay Castle in Morgon, with its beautiful garden, has a tasting room that also includes an interactive workshop. It is also a Relais Chateau hotel with a very good restaurant. Other wineries to visit are the Domaine de la Madone, which is located on a hillside of Fleurie, with its own church and panoramic views around the Beaujolais. There is a wonderfully relaxing restaurant, so a perfect place for a late morning visit, followed by a lunch.
I included a wine from the Domaine de la Madone in today's line-up, as well as wines from Lapierre, Foillard and Dufaitre.
8 wines to try
Golden Earth Clbadics Beaujolais Blanc, Jean-Paul Brown 2016, 18 €
12pc, of Direct Wine at Arnotts, Mullingar and winesdirect.fr
Yes, you can get white Beaujolais. It is made from the Chardonnay grape, and I absolutely adored the freshness of this organic grape, which I tasted on a wonderfully sunny terrace in Oingt.
Thorin Fleurie Pink Granite Earth 2015, 14,99 €
13pc, from Spar, Eurospar, Londis and Mace
Fleurie is one of the best-known Beaujolais vintages and is made by a very good merchant from the region, so it is offered at a more affordable price. Fresh with bright floral aromas and juicy red fruits.
Coquard House 69 2017, £ 14.99
13pc, after The Vintry, Rathgar and The Coach House, Ballinteer
I spent an interesting morning chatting with Christophe Coquard, and this Beaujolais, which you will find on the wine list of Pichet and Mont Juliette, is fresh with flavors of wild strawberry and wild strawberry. 19659012]
Henry Fessy Beaujolais Villages 2016, € 16.99
12.5pc, after Grape & Grain, Wine Cellar from Kelly, Goose and Higgins, all Dublin; Grenhams, Galway; Rineys, Sneem Co, Kerry and The 1601, Cork
Juicy, mellow and filled with ripe red berries and just a hint of spice, it's perfect for drinking in the summer.
Domaine de la Madone Fleurie 2016, € 17.50 (price reduced by € 20)
12pc, by Mitchell & Son, CHQ, Sandycove, Avoca, Kilmacanogue and Dunboyne [19659048] 2018-07- 21_lif_42412541_I2.JPG ” title=”Madone Fleurie” width=”620″ height=”” rel=”nofollow”/>
