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I suppose it can be described as a chance meeting when the taxi driver who took me to the airport informed me that he had lived in Belgrade and that the city was wonderful and the people there were even more wonderful.
He did not lie. I had never been to Serbia and my geography lessons always made me think of Belgrade as the capital of Yugoslavia. Which, of course, was until things moved at the beginning of the century. It is now the capital of Serbia.
We relied on the very central Hotel City Savoy – a small but perfectly formed home. Belgrade is the kind of city where you feel very comfortable very quickly. The people are friendly, most speak perfect English and getting around is easy.
Tasting local cuisine is part of the excitement of arriving in a new destination and Belgrade has a lot to offer.
Our first of many wonderful restaurants was Manufaktura in Kralja Petra, where we shared various meats and cheeses as well as cheese and spinach pastries, followed by beef medallions with mushroom sauce and "koh" dessert consisting of sponge cake soaked in milk and vanilla. extract. Everything was sprinkled with wonderful local wines.
Fully sated, it was time to explore the nightlife. Strolling the streets at night is a delight – they are full of bars and cafes, all with outdoor spaces, and give off a bohemian feel. Colorful funky chairs add to the ambiance.
But beware of cobblestones. I wore tall shoes and I know that I already mentioned how wonderful the wines were and, without reaching any conclusion, I found myself lying face down on the cobblestones. And a voice above me asked me with a distinctly familiar accent: "Are you okay? It turned out that it was a girl named Maeve, from my hometown, Cork. This shows how insatiable the Cork traveler is.
The last Crown Prince of Yugoslavia, Alexander, has resided at the Royal Palace in Belgrade since 2002. After 1945, during the communist regime, Presidents Tito and Milosevic lived here, and the state still owns the property. Alexander is the only son of the last king, Peter II, who did not abdicate. Therefore, if the monarchy were to be restored, he considers himself the legitimate heir.
The palace of Prince Alexander is open to the public and guided tours are available upon reservation via the palace's website. He was not at home during our visit, but it seems that he likes it, he likes to meet and welcome visitors.
Liz Taylor, Richard Burton, Queen Elizabeth and Richard Nixon have all stayed here. The frescoed hall, the baroque blue salon and the opulent dining room are all very impressive. Family photos abound. But what struck me, is the basement. Designed by two Russian architects, it houses a billiard room and a private cinema. Popcorn remained of the last projection.
When I am abroad, food is always close to my heart. The beautifully designed menu and the wonderfully wacky décor of the Hyde Park restaurant is enough to make you hungry. The food is also very good.
With miroch cheese and ham wrapped in zucchini for my entree, duck fillet with celery purée, pear sauce and polenta for my main course and torta reform dessert (a layered cake) with a chocolate cream filling), again defying all the rules of my slimming diet.
Belgrade has suffered five bombings – twice during the First World War, twice during the Second World War and again in 1999 during the Kosovo war. As a result, considerable damage has been done to the city. Among the bombed buildings were the Jugoslavia hotel, the Avala tower, the Chinese Embbady and hospitals. Some buildings were left in their bombing state as memorials.
There are still many beautiful buildings, including the temple of St Sava, a Serbian Orthodox church. It is one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world that can accommodate 10,000 worshipers. The dome is 230 feet high and no less than 800 singers can be accommodated in the choir gallery.
The Avala Mountain, just outside the city, is an area of great natural beauty and offers magnificent 360 degree views. The climb of the 80 steps leading to the Monument to the Unknown Hero in black marble is not as bad as it seems and is well worth a minor effort. Eight caryatids – large women in marble – in traditional costume from different parts of Yugoslavia guard the grave.
Belgrade is located at the confluence of two rivers – the Danube and the Sava – and its surroundings are a hive of activity. At night, we walked in front of bars and restaurants to the sound of gaiety and music. A vibrant and vibrant city emerged from the dark communist era.
Art is important in the city and visits to the National Museum and the Museum of Contemporary Art are a must. A painting by Renoir was stolen from the National Museum in 1996, but found after four days. More than 400,000 items are housed here, including sculptures, weapons, helmets, coins, medals, paintings, manuscripts and maps. What particularly hurt me, it is an old map of Serbia with a vast coastline. The country is now landlocked.
Another must is a trip to Zemun, a lively suburb. Freedom Quay is by the river and in the evening, its bars and restaurants are very lively. Some members of our gang set out to climb the observation platform of the millennium tower. On my side, I drank a little more of this delicious wine.
Later in the evening, we found the most wonderful bar right in the center of the old town, the Svetskih Putnika Club. It is underground and was once a secret place for political activists. Atmosphere and funky, it's like being in someone's living room. In fact, many bars in the city have this aesthetic.
Kalemegdan, the park that houses the fortress, is a lovely place to spend a few hours and as there is so much to see, I would recommend a visit. The monument of gratitude to France, St Petka Church and the enormous 15th century Zindan Gate are just some of the sites to see.
The day of our stay, there was an air show in the city and we enjoyed watching a spectacular show as fighter jets flew above us in formations.
The city of Novi Sad is about 80 km away. And despite his name, nothing is sad or even vaguely unhappy. It will be the European Capital of Culture for 2021 and is a place worthy of the name.
If you rent a car, stop in the charming little town of Sremski Karlovci and visit the Bee Museum. Honey is divine.
The wineries are predominant in this region and after a wonderful lunch at the Kovacevic winery, where a generous tasting of five wines accompanying each course costs only 750 dinars (just over € 6). The meal itself was reasonably priced too.
There is a very laid back atmosphere in Novi Sad. Here again, the fortress is worth a visit, with its panoramic views and 15 km of underground tunnels.
Novi Sad annually hosts the Exit music festival in the fortress and has won the prestigious "Best Major European Festival Award". In recent years, bands such as Guns N 'Roses, Duran Duran, Emile Sande, The Prodigy, and The Killers, to name just a few, have all been produced here.
The fortress is the second largest in Europe and 40 million bricks were built.
A group of pedestrian streets leads to the Freedom Square and Town Hall, a magnificent building. Just opposite and even more spectacular is the church The Name of Mary.
The cities of Novi Sad and Belgrade are ideal for a city break and it is very easy to admire as they are just an hour away from each other. A visit is worth it for the delicious food, the good wine and its reasonable price, as well as for its hospitality. The Serbian word for "cheers" is "Ziveli" who quickly became "dribble" for us. So, dribbly to a wonderful trip.
Take Two: the best attractions
Wines and appetizers
Serbia has hundreds of vineyards and every wine I sampled was very palatable, and I loved the ajvar – a flavor made from red pepper, garlic and Eggplant, which is served with most meals (and is a great gift).
Vibrating bars
Beton Hala is a lively area of the Sava River. During the day, a stroll and a lunch or coffee are a great way to spend a few hours. At night, the bars and restaurants are exhilarating and lively.
How to get there
Regent Holidays booking number: + 44 2076661244 or check their website at www.regentholidays.co.uk
A visit from Serbia with Regent, at £ 882 per person, includes:
* return economy clbad flights from Dublin with KLM via Amsterdam
* two nights at the City Savoy Hotel, Belgrade
* a night at the hotel Centar, Novi Sad
* private roundtrip transfers
* private transfer between Belgrade and Novi Sad
* Half-day private tour of Belgrade, including the House of Flowers – Tito's grave site
For more information on Serbia, log on to www.serbia.travel
Sunday Indo Living
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