Dior Haute Couture: fashion that reacts to the simplicity of populism – Fashion

"Let's be clear: these clothes in the photo do nothing". There is no half-measure and do not spell the words Maria Grazia Chiuri, the Italian designer who runs Dior. "Not only", he continues: "here in Paris I have to explain in three languages, two of which are not mine". It's a flooded river and every collection is flooded. The new couture show, then, is perhaps the last straw that broke the camel's back. "I've made a collection that can not be judged by images and does not want to be flashy, obvious, photogenic." On the contrary: I want to draw attention to volumes and constructions, not to surfaces or special effects ". Basically a declaration of war: because to look at each suit that arrives on the podium, everything seems flat, a thread already seen, almost minimalist. On the contrary, it is exactly the opposite.

The point of view of Maria Grazia Chiuri

"We live in a time when we are too closed in the present, in a frantic succession of ephemeral moments and images." I thought that this seam was a reaction to this attitude. The collection is designed primarily to reflect on the value of tradition and the need to think, to dream of the future, not just to live with the present.This second work is a question about the importance of time, the time it takes to do a good thing, to take care of oneself.It is time to attract the attention of appearance to the substance, especially for the high The substance, in this case, means great, great work on the volumes, on the buildings, a commitment so great and so meticulous to disappear, to become invisible.Only close and only for connoisseurs, therefore, these clothes are shown in all their size.This is a a kind of didactics, a lesson in culture and tradition. And yes, I think these questions, these values ​​represent one of the most important nodes for the contemporary ".

The Haute Couture Fall / Winter Collection 2018/19 by Dior

The silent show that appears on the podium is perhaps the most beautiful and mature collection orchestrated by Chiuri on his way to Dior. There are no cunning, pretentious quotes and even slogans to print on a T-shirt. There is no decorum, tightrope walking or copy / paste of an artistic movement or protest movement of the past. The new show simply celebrates and without clichés the greatness of the work of a sewing workshop. To do this, he even quotes a book, "Atelier" by Elisabetta Orsini, a treatise that puts the work of artists' studios at the center of great painters and writers following what Virginia Woolf also said in the small masterpiece "A room all for itself". The first handful of looks says it all: pure lines, fabrics designed with the best companies on the market, raw materials folded to the craft to give lightness where before there was heaviness and modernity where clbadicism mixes and retro spirit.

The double silk dissolves prodigiously, losing this brilliant patina so old. The double cashmere looks cooler and brighter than the cotton poplin. The glorious lines of the larger Dior's suit and coat become quick and easy as no sweatshirt could ever be.
And there is also a space for inclusion with a series of flesh-colored, or rather bad, creations that are actually designed to accommodate the many racial nuances of every woman that you can afford these masterpieces & # 39; work.
Accurate, with some colors cleverly calibrated downwards and especially sharpened like a knife, Dior's new haute couture collection comes in the clever, stylized, funambular way that surfaces as it dies and dries out at the most. deep of his being. – Think about volumes and buildings, so habits and destinations of use. From the first day of haute couture in Paris, it's both a great feat and a warning to come back to invest in the complexity at a time when even the style becomes too easy and may be a populist thread.