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When Christina Tosi's candy store, Milk Bar, opened at Harvard Square in February, it contained all the usual suspects: compost biscuits, cereal milk service, Milkquake desserts and cracker pie. , a dessert whose name has heated up and made the headlines for its fortuitous allusion to the very real problem of crack addiction.
On Monday, Tosi published a open letter on the Milk Bar website, indicating that the butter-soaked pie now bears a new nickname, the Milk Bar Pie.
Tosi created the treat while she was pastry chef at Wiley's WD-50, now closed in New York. In a 2018 episode of the Netflix series "Chef's Table: Pastry," the chef tells how, one Sunday, she began extracting the leftover refrigerator to create a dessert for the family meal, a meal shared by the restaurant staff before the start of the evening. .
"I cooked the pie and the garnish was never fully prepared, but it smelled really good," she explained in the documentary, before recalling how the kitchen staff is fell in love with dessert. "And that Australian cook was like, I do not know what you just did, but this pie is like crack. This is crack pie. "
Shortly after, it became a dish that Tosi regularly prepared for the family meal on Sunday, and the opening menu opened the menu when she launched Milk Bar in 2008.
But the politically charged label has also been the subject of much controversy. Combining decadent food with crack – a practice that is not exclusive to Milk Bar – has been called classist, unpleasant and, more recently, from Devra First to the Boston Globe, "not cute. "Critics at Milk Bar have been offensive in saying that the name of the pie ($ 6 for a whopping $ 44 for a whole pie) hinted at the addictive qualities of crack without regard to the unbridled destruction of the communities. families – especially Africans. Americans – the cost of drugs.
Tosi's Monday letter began with a note to the Milk Bar community, explaining the name change of the pie.
"We made the decision to stop using the Crack Pie name. Starting today, it will be called milk pie. Below, I share the note I sent to the Milk Bar team. In fact, anyone who visits this website, our stores or our social media is also part of our family and we listen to what you have to say.
Although change is never easy, we think it's the right decision. Not everything will happen at once, the coming weeks and months will be a transition period. Your support means everything to us and if you have feelings or questions about it, we are always there. Go for a piece of pie, a corn cookie or just for a friendly face. From day one, our only mission is to inspire a little moment of joy in your day.
Tosi then shared a memo addressed to the employees of Milk Bar, in which she indicated that the company was constantly evolving, that it was united in the theme of spreading joy and that "the old name was hindering Slice brings happiness – my only goal in creating the thing in the first place. "
Milk Bar has also posted news of the name change on his Instagram account.
Tosi has not responded to a maintenance request at the time of publication and it is unclear whether there is a catalyst, after years of sharp criticism, at the origin the name change.
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