My meeting with the poacher lions of the Sibuya reserve

A lapping descends inside the jeep as we come out of a dusty trail into a grassy plain of the Sibuya Reserve in the Eastern Cape, and Ranger Kent raises the hand to indicate an observation. A few meters away, a pride of lions bask in the evening sun. We are breathtaking, and they are beautiful – but, warns Kent, also particularly dangerous, with a pregnant woman and an angry mother in their midst.

We observe a moment in an impressed silence as the male looks at the pride. then back away respectfully. It was these lions who, a few weeks later, were responsible for the deaths of three suspected poachers who seemed to want to kill the rhinos for their horns.

Earlier, we had enjoyed a similar sighting of two young rhinos who, nibbling away and breathing easily, seemed utterly imprudent by our presence – a confidence perhaps attributable to the 24-hour efforts of the anti-poaching patrols. This ubiquitous guard, while having the undesirable side effect of normalizing human contact for the rhinoceros, is too much needed

a few years ago, the mothers of the rhinoceros were slaughtered; their horns carved in their skull by poachers to retain their maximum value. The babies were found traumatized by the bloody bodies of their mothers and, too few to survive on their own, were sent to a rehabilitation center where they were bottle-fed for over a year. Orphan calves, Nu-nu Noelle and Winston were eventually brought back to Sibuya in 2017 and their protective patrols include hot and cold scented dogs – the latter still combing the reserve for signs of other poachers today. who would have escaped the lions.

Back at Sibuya tented camp powered by solar and sunny energy, during hearty meals at the lodge's communal wooden table, we have time to learn more. Three topics dominate the hearts and minds of ubiquitous rangers: conservation, fighting the ubiquitous threat of rhinoceros poaching, and how to keep tourists who fund both – and they have endless stories and derring-do stories to bring

After all, there is a lot to conserve: the old floodplains and pristine coastal forest shelter nearly 400 types of birds and 45 other species of wildlife. Alongside the rhinos and lions there are giraffes, impalas, wildebeest and elephants (we have our own moment of Jurassic Park with an elephant mother who comes up to the jeep and looks at us, before her trunk sniffs us suspiciously – then all of us with snot elephants). There are also hoo hoo, warthogs and African nyala, as well as wild kittens that hang around the lodge. The Sibuya Rangers – who are closer to their vocations – know them all: their personalities, their favorite places, their nicknames. They love them as pets – but they never forget that they are wild animals.

Stays in Sibuya, which runs along the estuary of the Kariega River, include twice daily strolls across steep rocky slopes and vast expanses of plains, river fishing, picnics and spectacular observation of the stars. Oversized sponge sofas and friendly common areas, a bar stocked with free South African wines, and spacious rooms with a king-size bed and bed linens, comfortable beds for kids, windows and a separate bathroom. with double sink and freestanding bath). As part of their tariff, customers also pay a rhinoceros tax to fund ongoing efforts to protect animals.

With neighboring reserves, owner Nick Fox formed the Eastern Cape Reserves Association (Indalo) he was given protected status as part of South Africa's overall conversation efforts. But it is never enough. They would need, he says, a "small army" to adequately patrol the 50 km of game fence.

On our last safari, the jeep climbs a last bumpy and dusty track on the top of the hill. panoramic view of the game reserve that surrounds them. Warden Kent celebrates with well-received G & Ts and shears glasses. We feel at the top of the world. Below us, from somewhere in the plain, we hear a lion roar, reminding us just who governs this world.