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"It's a bit of a wink to the real world," a makeup artist – and legendary magnificient beauty – said Pat McGrath backstage at Marc Jacobs' Spring 2020. "For Marc and me, it's an idealized interpretation of real life. past and future. "
Marc Jacobs' presentation, which marked the end of NYFW this season, began on a nostalgic note. Held on the occasion of the 18th anniversary of September 11, the show recalled some of the most important icons and events of the past.
A team of mesmerizing characters portrayed by models gave life to a range of knit dresses, patterned suits, pieces with carefully embroidered applications and sequins, and vibrant colors.
"There is an amazing cast of characters in the series – some extravagant, some natural," McGrath said. "Everyone now enjoys playing with makeup.Some people are really quirky and some people love the art of real natural makeup.Once you've seen the clothes, you'll see real characters come to life."
By deepening her themes of nostalgia and icons, McGrath has created dozens of different looks, working primarily with exaggerated eyelashes, loose glitter and dazzled eyes of rhinestones and gold leaf. She also included interesting eye shadows and warm tones, as well as a distinct antique pistachio shade painted on the eyelids.
The idea was always to re-examine the past and the future through a modern lens. "When you think of a lot of makeup, you still think it's pretty old fashioned," she said. "What's great is taking old looks, but modernizing them. This is another great quest that we all pursued as a team. In a way, I would call this a modern approach to street style. It's very funny for me and for the team to be able to express ourselves in all these different ways. No girl, boy or person could look alike. All had to be alike. to be different. It was quite an exercise, as you can imagine. "
Hairdresser Guido Palau followed a complementary trajectory by shaping 61 different hairstyles, each inspired by the icons of the past. There was one that looked like Marilyn Monroe, another that reminded Jane Fonda and even one inspired by Shelly Duval.
"We have invested in their energy, which is why we love them.They are emblematic," wrote Palau behind the scenes. "We always talk about an ultimate in something, but the ultimate is the individuality, the expression of who you are, and it can be anything." There is a resurgence 80s, yes, but then do it your way.
There were loose, but swollen, choppy waves to the ear, classic air hostess bobs with a side bangs, messy leprechauns topped with colorful hats . The dominant message in this table of creations, however, remains the same: inclusivity.
"The takeaway is for real women," said Palau. "Normally, women are always looking for advice:" Is this correct? Are you OK? "But there are no rules on what is right.It is true if you are comfortable, it is such an old idea of beauty and it is totally When we look at the icons, we assume that they are safe, but we do not, I do not know if Marilyn Monroe was not, and that's why we idolize them. in many ways, we idolize their beauty, but who knows how they really were. "
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