Gaultier illuminates Paris fashion week with a provocative ode to smoking



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PARIS – With sensual tuxedos and a dress that seemed to float on the catwalk like cigarette smoke, the French designer Jean Paul Gaultier celebrated smoking in all its forms on Wednesday in a fashion show too rigid. attitudes

The reinterpretations of "Le Smoking" – or women's tuxedos popularized by the late French couturier Yves Saint Laurent in the 1960s – dominate the Haute Couture collection, with black and white combinations of jackets and flying dresses for example . The stylist took the smoke as a source of inspiration for a transparent dress adorned with swirling ornaments, or a wedding dress with a lighthouse, a train of wasps that seemed to vanish into the air when he was spinning on the track.

Gaultier, the "enfant terrible" auto-style of the fashion world, was also deliberately returning to a time when smoking was more widely acceptable.

"I do not smoke, but I was always surrounded Gaultier said after the show in Paris

" I do not say 'no smoking or smoking', c & # 39; is only that people should do what they want. "

Smoking was banned in public places in France in 2006, echoing repressions in many other countries by the authorities for health reasons.

RELEASING THE MUNI
The flamboyant designer showed his support for a Florida teenager in bandages at his high school for not wearing a bra under his sweatshirt. Lizzy Martinez, 17, made the headlines in April when she said the teachers told her to wear a second t-shirt and put bandages on her nipples after claiming that other students had been distracted by her breasts

. a girl should be treated well, and used her collection to support her.

He told AFP that if "men had the right to go to bare chest, why not women?"

A man and a barachested woman walk on the catwalk, each wearing transparent police visors bearing the caption "Free the nipple" in French and English

"You can see nipples and jewelry but you can not not touch, "he said." I'm not saying that you have to bare your breasts. I'm really for corsets and bras, clearly I like them, "said the designer who came up with Madonna's famous tapered bustiers." But a woman should be allowed not to wear bra under her T-shirt, "he added.

Gaultier played with the visibility of the nipple in four other looks from his fall-winter collection which was a typically playful celebration of freedom.

" We live in a world rather policed ​​and I was looking for a pretext to show freedom for all, "he said." I wanted to show that you can walk around with bare breasts without being attacked or assaulted. It's the freedom to have fun and not take life too seriously. "

The couture brand of Gaultier is owned by the Spanish fashion and perfume group Puig.

Paris Haute Couture Week unique creations and present some of their most elaborate styles – until July 5th. – Reuters / AFP

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