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Seared sweetbreads, carbonara style eggs, red butter horse whiting. The photos are enticing, the recipes are mostly complex. They are signed by 122 chefs de bistrots, in a beautiful book that has just been published by Ducasse. No comprehensive guide or cookbook, Le Paris des bistrots is a showcase of the best addresses of Parisian bistronomy. "We highlight a low-valued profession when most of the chefs mentioned in this book have worked in large houses," says David Rathgeber, head of the Plate (XIV).
This restaurateur is a member of the collective Le plus bistrot de Paris, which has ten members (chefs, sommelier Philippe Bourguignon and epicureans). This collective had selected in 2016 the 100 best bistrots of Paris, which received from Anne Hidalgo the medal of the city of Paris. From this momentum, initiated by Alain Ducasse, founder of the collective, was born this book.
All addresses have been tested by at least two members of the collective. Alain Ducasse tasted 25, David Rathgeber a good fortnight. The list of recipes is a greedy excuse to talk about what makes up the DNA of Paris.
Some addresses in the suburbs too
"Our selection criteria were the quality, the welcome, the place to be played by a chef, the wine list and the geographical diversity," says Valérie Leveziel d'Arc.
On the day of the launch of the book, at Alain Noste (II), Alain Ducasse stayed for a long time leaning on the counter. Smiling, happy, he let his colleagues speak. Delighted to present one of his darlings, Arnaud Duheim, who worked with him before opening Les Petits princes, in Suresnes (92), two years ago. "We find in many bistrots the techniques and quality of palaces, with less tablecloths and chichis," says Arnaud Duheim.
Because at the bistro, we also go for "conviviality, sharing, authenticity", insists Damien Desprès, at the head of Aubergine et Compagnie in Montrouge (92). He is delighted that Greater Paris has a place in this book. Even if the small crown is reduced to 8 addresses, mainly in the Hauts-de-Seine. This chef only works with producers, up to salt and butter. "I favor short circuits with thirty suppliers, and I can source very precisely all my products. "
The book also has historical addresses, such as the centenary Cariboo Den. "The Parisian universe of bistrots is old, but not fixed," argues its chef Rodolphe Paquin. It also includes women, like Alessandra Montagne. In her Tempero (13th century), she places "generosity at the heart of everything". For this chef of Brazilian origin, no doubt, "the bistro is part of the soul of Paris".
The Paris of the Bistrots, Ducasse edition, 35 €.
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