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ONA was also one of 33 restaurants across the country to receive a green star, a new category created by the Michelin Guide last year which rewards restaurants “committed to promoting a virtuous and sustainable approach to gastronomy”. Mr Poullenec said inspectors were looking for restaurants that work with local producers, grow their own fruits and vegetables, or limit the amount of waste produced in the kitchen.
To the despair of chefs across France, restaurants remained empty for most of 2020 due to the pandemic.
They were forced to shut down for the first time in the spring, when authorities imposed a strict nationwide lockdown. After a brief summer reopening, restaurants, cafes and bars were closed again in November – and will remain so until February at the earliest.
But the Michelin, unlike other culinary guides, has continued to distribute its coveted one, two and three stars, which can lift a restaurant out of obscurity but also put immense psychological or financial pressure on chefs to ensure that they maintain their rating.
No three-star restaurant has been demoted in the 2021 edition of the guide, which was presented Monday during a ceremony at Jules Vernes, a restaurant on the Eiffel Tower, with only a few chefs present. The event was broadcast live on social media. Only one restaurant, run by chef Alexandre Mazzia in Marseille, was promoted to three stars this year.
Ms. Vallée, originally from the eastern city of Nancy, is a trained archaeologist who fell in love with cooking after taking a summer job in Switzerland. She decided to hone her skills over several years, including one in Thailand, where she discovered the potential for tasty cuisine focused on plants, spices, vegetables and herbs.
But in 2016, when she presented her vegan restaurant project on her return to France, traditional banks saw little potential.
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