"Stay well back … or risk certain death"



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Storm systems, caused by persistent low pressures near Alaska, are raising waters to dangerous levels along the west coast of the United States.

The punishment caused by the big waves goes back to the south. Washington state across central California. The San Francisco Bay Area is one of the most affected regions, with waves up to 30 to 40 feet in height until Tuesday. It was even enough to to postpone a surfing competition.

This event is huge, and actually affecting the entire west coast. Surf surfer warnings range from the north of the Oregon-Washington border about two hours north of Los Angeles. High seas warnings or gale warnings extend from Canada's border into Mexico.

"The dramatic height of the waves is related to the constancy of the action of the winds. . . Marshall Shepherd, Professor of Atmospheric Science at the University of Georgia, writes to Forbes.

As can be seen in the image above (where blue corresponds to low pressure and orange at high pressure), the cause of widespread breakers and very dangerous for life along the west coast is this low pressure complex revolving around the Gulf of Alaska.

The gigantic gyre blows storm after storm on the west coast. This also promotes ideal conditions so that strong winds blow over hundreds of kilometers of ocean virtually unchanged, resulting in the formation of gigantic waves.

Hopes prepare conditions so extreme that the National Meteorological Service of San Francisco Bay tweeted "STAY WELL BACK OF THE OCEAN OR RISK SOME DEATH". The urgency highlights the unusual risk posed by this wave of mega-waves. 19659017] Northern California, including the San Francisco Bay Area, is expected to be facing the worst of these waves pounding the shoreline. The top of the summit may be Monday while waves of 25 to 40 feet may be common. According to the meteorological service, some could even exceed 20 meters

North of the bay, it is likely that the waves reach a height of between 25 and 35 feet on the northern coast of California and in Oregon. The heights are slowly withdrawing to the north, but the coastal areas north of Washington state are at risk of generalized high winds as well as rainy conditions.

From Los Angeles and to the south, the action of the waves is enough to warn surf with the expected altitudes. between about 4 and 10 feet from the border with Mexico. Heading north along the coast from Los Angeles, the waves reach a height of 15 to 25 feet across the central part of the California coast

In the short term, there is no expectation of any major change in the pattern that brings this storm to shore, but the current intensity of the Alaska Depression should to mitigate in the coming days. Although large waves are likely on parts of the west coast beyond Tuesday, the danger should be somewhat mitigated after this point.

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