Kim Highwire: North Korea, a pariah state, attacking smartphones and Celine Dion

PYONGYANG – On the banks of the Taedong River in Pyongyang, parents take souvenirs from their children on locally made smartphones and young couples, women dressed in traditional luminous jeogori dresses, are followed by wedding photographers.

The capital of the most secluded dictatorship in the world is showing worrying signs of modernization, with the seemingly emerging class able to buy flat-screen TVs with online apps and watch the Wimbledon tennis final on Mokran, the response to Netflix approved by the North Korean state.

Economic development and efforts to raise the standard of living became the new priority of Kim Jong Un and his propaganda machine, in April, when he announced that the state's quest for nuclear weapons was "complete".

But his efforts to carefully open his pariah state to selected appearances of the modern outside world risk being blocked by a stalemate on nuclear disarmament with the United States.

Severe sanctions have slowed economic progress in North Korea, said Ri Gi Song, one of the country's leading economists, at the Daily Telegraph.

"Frankly, if there were no sanctions, our pace of development would be much faster than today," said Ri, a professor at the Institute of Science. Pyongyang and Government Counselor.

He quickly felt that the economy was still moving at its "best pace" because of "our self-confidence," but his admission provided some context for Pyongyang's deep frustration with the US strategy.

North Korea demanded a relaxation of sanctions before continuing the disarmament negotiations. Kim's "new strategic line" to bring his country torn apart by poverty in the 21st century is conditional on Washington doing it.

In Pyongyang, one of the most obvious signs of his policy change is the eye-catching roadside signage and the colorful posters adorning the lampposts and walls of schools and factories, which have gone from the glorification of Northern military power to the glory of the virtues of building a building. socialist economy.

Commuters crammed into the city's red and agitated streetcars are no longer transmitting anti-US images of missiles launched on Capitol Hill, but are now reminded to "create a decisive development in improving the standard of living." Made by a mother and her child watching a table of food and clothing. and electrical products.

Last Friday, the sudden announcement by Pyongyang of the testing of an "ultramodern tactical weapon" – considered a long-range artillery piece – prompted foreign media to to speculate nervously about new complications during the talks with the United States. splash at home.

Kim's long-term urban development plan in Simuijin, a city on the border with China, has been given greater importance. Jang Chung-yong, guide to the tower of Juche, monument 179 meters high to the national ideology of "autonomy," said: "The future development of our country can only be guaranteed by powerful weapons. It is only natural for a country to strengthen its tools of self-defense. "

In front of the tower, two dozen laughing retirees began to dance and sing spontaneously with folk songs. They did not celebrate the last weapon test, but Mother's Day, which falls on November 16th.

In the four-story Gwangbok department store, two military spouses bought winter shoes to give to their mothers. Beside the warm winter boots, coat railings and elegant and colorful women's dresses were arranged.

"Yes!" They laughed when asked if they thought of the locals – who seldom get away from the black clothes – dressed too nicely. "They need to cool off!" Within the confines of the capital, at least, there are surprising clues that life is becoming more comfortable. On the store's ground floor, buyers of crowded aisles can choose from a wide selection of locally-made groceries, while celebrities can purchase a 21-year-old bottle of Ballantine whiskey for around $ 160.

Luxury goods like Bordeaux wine or imported Heineken beer are popular and readily available, and although private cars are still largely absent, better-off commuters can save their energy with a $ 460 electric bike.

The people of Pyongyang are not entirely consumed by politics.

The future development of our country can only be guaranteed by strong arms

Modern North Koreans love to sing karaoke, mixing sad and traditional songs evoking a desire for unification with the South and their favorite Western classics. My heart will go with Celine Dion is a frequent choice, alongside Danny Boy and Edelweiss. They are also crazy about sports and devote their meal times to volleyball, handball and taekwondo.

At home, families can browse through five carefully watched television channels for entertainment, choosing from Russian talent shows and popular soap operas like New Spring in Sokkyeul, a didactic tale of a Korean war hero who is organizing cooperative culture and eliminates its class enemies. .

The increasing prevalence of online games like Candy Crush or purchases via the Mansulmang app pose their own challenges. "Myopia is becoming a problem, as young people are increasingly interested in mobile phones and laptops," said Kim Un-ae, a manager at the prestigious Ryugyong Eye Hospital, whose boutique was filled with creative executives.

But beyond the gradual improvement of Pyongyang's way of life, it should be noted that foreigners, who are mostly confined to the city, see nothing of extreme poverty, malnutrition or human rights violations. man in brutal detention camps that are widely reported by humanitarian agencies and activists.

Entry into this state of seclusion is conditioned by participation in a strictly controlled visit to the best hospitals, schools, museums and factories that North Korea wishes to exhibit. An unannounced walk without a guard is forbidden.

Citizens also face many obstacles to their freedom. Individual freedoms are not among the newly authorized new features for employees. Internet may seem modern, but only content censored by the state can be downloaded. External online searches are limited and must be recorded.

At the same time, Kim's recent economic advances are based on nuclear progress that could destabilize them.

"He knows that the acquisition of nuclear weapons has made it possible to focus on economic development and he will not abandon them," said Vipin Narang, associate professor of political science at the Massachusetts Institute of Economics. Technology. As a result, the long-term sanctions, which were tightened last year, are also severe. A few blocks from the Ryomyong Tower in central Pyongyang, located in central Pyongyang, the roads dissolve into crumbling potholes. At night, the city is plunged into darkness because of dim lights and dim lifts to conserve electricity. Farm and factory workers admit to adapting their work practices to deal with fuel and supply shortages caused by sanctions, but shortages are touted as praise for the country's resilience and never as a motive complaint.

The deputy director, Kim Jong-ho, told the vegetable farm in Jangchon, a suburb of the city, that the lack of fuel had led to a return on horseback and carts. "We overcome our difficulties by relying on ourselves," he said.
Body: At the Ryuwon shoe factory, one official said the plant's researchers had created an alternative to acetone, which could not be imported under sanctions.

Even commuters randomly selected on the city's Sixties metro system remained on the message when asked. "We do not care about sanctions imposed by the United States. We will build a powerful nation, "said Kang Sunhwok, 43, as he climbed the escalator.

But if the economy continues to weaken under the sanctions regime, Kim will wonder how long such an unwavering loyalty will last. "Kim allows North Korea to become a parallel market capitalist economy, generate growth and prevent a return to famine. And a famine could lead to civil unrest, "said Robert Kelly, a professor of political science at Busan University.

"North Koreans do not worry if people are starving, but they worry if hungry people take up arms against the regime."