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MILAN – Milanese designers embrace women of all shapes, sizes and ages, although the young and slender model prevailed during this week's previews this spring and summer.
Marni's parade included women of varying sizes while Dolce & Gabbana continued to adopt various age and size models for their Sunday DNA fashion show.
Highlights of the Sunday show, the fifth day of the premieres of women's clothing for the upcoming spring and summer:
DOLCE & GABBANA TRIBUTE TO HERITAGE
Dolce & Gabbana traced their DNA by bringing back some of their most famous models: Carla Bruni in brocade costume, Monica Belluci in polka dot dress, Eva Herzigova in sparkling black chiffon and Isabel Rosselilni with a hood. with his children Roberto and Elettra carrying his young son.
In the brand's inclusion offer, they sent grandmothers with granddaughters, husbands and wives, lesbian couples and winding dummies, including Ashley Graham.
Cardi B kept a close eye on the collection of its front seat, removing its D & G sunglasses covered with animal skin to absorb the continuous stream of flash. Her eyes remained stuck on an embroidered shawl jacket with a miniskirt, mouthing, "I like it," with an impertinent shoulder shake.
The elaborate collection of Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana has demonstrated the unparalleled ability of designers to look over-the-top with a range for all. There were pretty, layered floral dresses with jewelery sandals, biker jackets with tuxedo tails, raw jute fabrics in fringed day suits, and shiny organza tiered dresses.
While the collection incorporated the duo's well-known motifs, including Madonna prints, Sicilian references and floral prints, there was also a pointed message on a net top: "Fatto a Mano" or crafts.
The designers also hinted at a forthcoming project for Milan and Rome: a Christmas market in Rinascente department stores with Dolce & Gabbana style appliances and their own assortment of Panettone's Christmas cake. The clues included a Santa Claus figurine carried by a model and an impression that echoes the single panettone box.
THE BRIGHTNESS OF BEING ARMANI
Giorgio Armani's collection for next spring and summer has been meticulously carved from iridescent, dreamy, blue, gray and pink textiles that collect light. The main point of contrast, a brilliant fuchsia, which has become the dominant color of the season in Milan.
The looks had what the designer called "a liquid lightness", derived from a range of unobtrusive colors – with the exception of a touch of fuchsia.
"Everything is mixed and very subtle in terms of colors. The color this time gave shape to the clothes, "said Armani behind the scenes.
The figure was elongated, often with a layer of organza that wrapped around the silhouette or covered pants for a hazy effect. A plexiglass bustier gave shape to a micro-pleated dress.
Armani continued to master the jacket with flowing jackets on straight pants or fitted leather jackets with colored pants and jackets with a long layer of tulle. A dramatic cape-shaped jacket had exaggerated military details on the shoulders, worn over a fitted organza suit.
The collection presented futuristic touches, ranging from cellophane look to shoes to net shoes.
"It's a woman who wants to get noticed," said the designer. "She does not go away dressed as a man."
Armani greeted the crowd wearing a jacket and tie instead of his usual dark blue T-shirt or sweater.
"You did not recognize me, do not you?" He jokes behind the scenes.
CALL OF WAKEUP OF MARNI
The fashion crowd rose early Sunday for a fashion call, only to lie down in the Marni showroom. The newest seating arrangement by designer Francesco Risso was a series of amphitheater-shaped beds.
Risso was exploring the classics for more than one reason. The silhouette was mostly classic and tailored, with avant-garde touches that made the collection look like a desperate punk housewife. But he also incorporated elements of the ancient classical world, including engravings with architectural elements – a departure from Marni's traditional flowers – and jewelry Venus de Milo.
The art was everything in the building. The skirts were swept as a sarong, worn with bustiers at the shoulder, but with sturdy fabrics that suggest the city and not light beach dishes. Risso gave a new twist to the Roman toga in textiles with clean forms. The bomber jackets had a half-belt sewn in the back. The full skirt dresses had front panels, some left as a blank canvas, others with prints.
Risso has included medium-sized women in her model, who have made it clear that collections can have a wide audience.
The colors ranged from sweet creams and yellows to stronger reds and blues. The glasses were spectacular sunglasses.
MISSION CELEBRATES HERITAGE IN SEARCH OF THE FUTURE
Missoni offered the fashion crowd a breathtaking view of the new skyscrapers of Milan architects Zaha Hadid, Arata Isozaki and Daniel Libeskind to celebrate its 65th anniversary.
Creative Director Angela Missoni said she chose the terrace overlooking the City Life district and Mario Bellini's silver sculpture "Comet" because the view was "the most futuristic place in Milan".
"This place is a dream. This place sums up the future, "she said.
The looks of men and women were delicate in tone, weight and structure.
For women, Angela Missoni has constructed layered works, incorporating fresh details such as tiered frills and overlays of braided threads for a playful twist. The men's look was casual and functional, including kimono tops, long t-shirts and cardigans.
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