India and the Internet: what does it look like in the field



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"Now we enter the area of ​​absence of network", our translator, Amrit Singh, turned and told me. A few minutes earlier, my phone had pinged emails, text messages, and Instagram notifications. They stopped completely.

We continued for 30 minutes, chatting and looking at the arid landscape, suddenly without our six-inch screens to look after us. After a few kilometers, we arrived at a small group of mud houses, a village called Bida.

We installed our camera to interrogate Sawal Singh, a man who said he was 35 but looked more than 50. Amrit translating from Marwadi – the local language – and encouraging our nervous interviewee, we asked him he knew what was the Internet. Singh gave us a blank look.

When I asked if he had a cell phone, he brandished a device smaller than his palm with a numbered keyboard. It was then a little more lively explaining that there was a "big problem of tour" in the area. He showed us how he had to climb a big tree in the middle of the village to make calls. Sometimes it works, especially not.

It was a phrase I heard throughout the day – "tower problem" – referring to the mobile towers that these villagers were certain to transform their lives. It was not even about the internet, which many of them had never experienced. It was simply about being able to reach people by phone and access the services of a country with the fastest growing web in the world.

"I want to talk to my children who live in the city," said Jamna Devi, a resident of the nearby village of Faledi. "If someone falls sick, how to call a doctor? If our animals get lost, how to call the neighboring villages to find out where they went?"

The people of Bida want mobile phones to access basic services and government programs.
A large number of villagers said that they wanted access to government welfare programs that they thought could be implemented over the phone. Most of them were far removed from the Google (GOOGL), Facebook (FB) and Twitter (TWTR) universes.

Some of the youngest villagers actually had a smartphone, those who went to Jaisalmer to work as day laborers, one day a day by bus, to the city. There, they would use WhatsApp and YouTube, unnecessary services in their unconnected village. And even in the city, they often do not have time to use them, except waiting for the return of the bus.

"Are we working and making our living or are we watching YouTube?" says a frustrated young man named Rahul. He has a Chinese smartphone that cost him about 10,000 rupees ($ 140), a month's salary.

When I started researching this story, I knew I had to visit a place without access to the Internet. In two years, covering India, I have cited the statistics of 900 million unconnected Indians more than once I can remember. But I had never met any of them and always wondered who they were. This story has given me the opportunity to change that.

My reporting trip the week before could not have been more different.

I went to Bangalore, the busy technology center often referred to as Silicon Valley in India, to visit the country's largest e-commerce company, Flipkart. When the company started in 2007, India had less than 50 million Internet users. That number has surpassed 500 million this year, just as Flipkart was sold to retail giant Walmart (WMT) for $ 16 billion.

Flipkart's head office in the upscale Embassy Tech Village neighborhood in Bangalore occupies three 10-storey towers each, with a dozen restaurants and a rooftop basketball court. These tours host approximately 8,000 employees of Flipkart's leading online sales company. Hundreds of others work for its digital payment and fashion affiliates. The neighboring offices house world names such as WeWork and Xiaomi.

During our visit, the company had just sold more than 3 million smartphones in 24 hours as part of its annual "Big Billion Days" sale. The kind that people like Jamna Devi have never used.
The gap between these two worlds is vast, but Google, Facebook, Reliance Jio (and more) and the Indian government are rushing to close their doors.

And as more and more people in the world of Jamna Devi and Sawal Singh join the company dominated by companies like Flipkart, the effects will be felt far beyond India.

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