K-beauty: The rise of Korean makeup in the West

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Bebe Chuu

For thousands of years, fashion conscious people have used makeup to get a perfect look and follow trends that are changing rapidly. Today, the global beauty industry is experiencing a revolution led by South Korea. Say hello to K-beauty.

Young people in Western countries are passionate about K-pop – Korean pop music – and Korean soap operas.

Many Korean celebrities and pop stars, including the seven-member BTS Boys Group, are known for their distinctive look.

But it's not just about Korean entertainment: over the past 18 months, Korean beauty trends have intensified in the West.

In 2017, South Korea's beauty sector was estimated at just over $ 13 billion, according to researchers in the retail sector, Mintel.

The fascination of Korean cosmetics is due to their innovation, said Katie Thomas, digital editor for the beauty of Marie Claire.

The beauty sector in South Korea is generally 10 to 12 years ahead of the rest of the world, she said.

"It's not that there has been a big boom, we're catching up with them basically, [helped by] the expansion of Instagram and the beauty of blogs. "

"Skin care first"

Even before putting on makeup, Koreans have put a lot of effort into taking care of their skin.

"From an early age, Korean culture is rooted in Korean culture," says Ms. Thomas, explaining that the Korean philosophy is to make sure that your skin looks beautiful, rather than needing to "keep it beautiful." a foundation and other products to cover unsightly imperfections. .

You can get used to the typical three-step daily routine of using a cleanser, toner and moisturizer before applying make-up, but in South Korea, skincare regimens range from seven to twelve steps, with one special emphasis on moisturizing the skin with the help of gentle and natural techniques. Ingredients.

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K Beauty Bar / Beauty Jinmee

"Some people would say that it's excessive, but the fact is that you're feeding your skin with these incredible ingredients.It's so different in the UK." [in comparison], "said Mrs. Thomas.

South Korea does a lot more research on new products than in other countries, she says, because there are many competing brands, each trying to be the best.

"The Korean beauty industry does not hesitate to introduce into its formulas new, unique ingredients that would never be considered in the West," said Karen Hong, founder of K Beauty Bar, a franchise of beauty products. Korean beauty found at Topshop's flagship store on Oxford Street in London.

Unique ingredients such as …? "Snail mucine for hydration, pearl for lightening, green tea for the control of oil and bee propolis to soothe and nourish", recounts she.

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Jinmee Beauty / Topshop

Social success

In the United States, 13% of girls aged 10 to 17 are interested in K-beauty beauty products, and 18% of women aged 18 to 22 have already used these products.

According to Andrew McDougall, Global Beauty Analyst at Mintel, Korean beauty trends have grown in popularity through "smart digital marketing strategies" on social media that have sparked the interest of influencers, bloggers and bloggers. Western journalists.

Colorful packaging, reviews, and demonstrations on Instagram and YouTube steal consumer interests.

"It's the consumers who are better informed and doing their own research, and it's the influencers who put them on the path to K-beauty," McDougall said.

Katie Thomas agrees: "This fun and rather cartoony approach to K-pop is really part of their business, but it's doing very well, people are buying fun packaging – things they can take in. photo on their bathroom shelves. "

Some products are found in Topshop and TKMaxx, but other than that, most UK consumers can only buy these products online.

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YesStyle

YesStyle.com, which debuted in 2015, is one of those companies and considers Korean makeup as a big business.

The Hong Kong-based e-commerce company, which has more than 150 Korean brands, expects sales of K-beauty products to reach $ 25 million in 2018.

Its founder, Joshua Lau, said the success of his website relies on critics of verified buyers who give Western consumers the confidence to try their luck with new items.

Romy Rose Reyes, beauty editor at YesStyle, said Western consumers were intrigued by the "make-up-free" look of "Chok Chok," which aimed to "have rosy, swelling skin with extra shine."

According to Ms. Reyes and Ms. Hong, the "natural" and "youthful" look is part and the matte appearance favored by the European and American markets is now over.

To this end, the focus is on:

• creating a subtle lip shading with lip shades
• light foundation innovations: "cushion" foundations, BB creams (beauty or anti-imperfection creams) and CC creams (color correction creams)
• use face masks in "leaf" to treat various skin problems.

Inspirational products – K-beauty & # 39;

Western cosmetics manufacturers have also become aware.

"We have seen some Western brands incorporate some of these steps into their own regimes," says Marie Claire's Katie Thomas.

"For example, Yves Saint Laurent offers blushers for foundation and cushions – it's a little less scary for consumers – an easy way to use K-beauty with a well-known brand."

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Primark

This summer, Primark launched its K-Pop cosmetics line, which quickly sold out.

Primark told the BBC that she was inspired by a "huge trend" based on skin care innovations from South Korea, and that she continues to store masks for the face.

"We discovered that this range really worked for the young consumer, who did not necessarily look after a serious skin care," said a spokesman for the company.

So, is it a K-Beauty fashion or trend?

Ms. Thomas thinks it's here to stay, because young people are very concerned about the environment and the resulting damage to humans, as well as to plants and animals.

"People are becoming more and more sensitive to what's going on in their skin – there's so much pollution in our skin that we do not know," she says. "Everything about damage to the environment is widespread in the Western market."

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Although this largely concerns women, cosmetics in Korea represent an important market for both male and female consumers, so is K-beauty likely to take off with men in the West?

"In Korea, men have a different attitude towards skincare and makeup, and they are not afraid to express themselves as long as they have sex. look good and feel good, especially among younger generations.But this trend has not reached the mainstream male population of the west, "says Karen Hong.

Andrew McDougall of Mintel agrees.

"Western men are becoming more and more active consumers in the beauty and personal care sector, even though it's still a long way to go," he says.

He cites Chanel's recent launch of a make-up line for men called Chanel Boy. The company has chosen to launch its products in South Korea rather than in France, its original country.

Mr. McDougall adds that he does not wear makeup and does not use a sophisticated skin care routine himself.