Kate Spade's latest collection – The New York Times

"We had such an outpouring from customers who said," Please continue the business, "said Ms. Arons. "It became clear that what we had to do: go ahead and honor Katy."

(The Kate Spade New York brand, which Ms. Spade left in 2007 and which belongs to the Tapestry fashion group, is also moving forward, as she held her first fashion show on Friday.)

The first (at least after orders from the fall collection, much of which was sold less than a week after it went online Aug. 1) is the new version of the first bag that Ms. Spade made.

Originally called the H120 – "H" for "horizontal" and "120" to hide the fact that he was the first; it was perhaps the 120th! – This was the brand's first style in 1994 at a trade show at the Javits Convention Center. It has attracted the attention of Barneys New York.

The reborn bag, which will cost $ 195 (a percentage of sales goes to the Boys and Girls Clubs of America), is a minimalist nylon bag in primary shades, with a gold zipper on the top and an embroidered valentine heart. the light of the heart, which is a kind of spades thing.

See, for example, the canvas bag that appears in the resorts. It includes a sketch of Mrs. Spade made by his friend Matt Grenby of Parker Thatch, while his wife and he were on vacation with Kate and Andy: his hair in his messy bun, his thick-rimmed glasses, his hand martini.

Or see the bag tutti-frutti hula, with a generous bangs. Or, in fact, a dress – "the accessory of our accessories," said Ms. Arons – who is about to go pre-order: a bright red traditional Mexican blouse embroidered with white peacocks and inspired by the l One of the many Mexican dresses in Mrs. Spade's closet.

"We had a great family trip together to Mexico in 2006 after selling our first business and we did a lot of sartorial shopping," said Ms. Arons. "She loved shopping in the markets and always came back with baskets and hats."

There will also be a vintage inspired cardigan sewn with multicolored flowers that echoes one of the sweaters offered by Ms. Spade. (A display of clothing in the exhibition hall is still filled with many pieces, including a Marni geometric coat, a 1940s pale yellow vintage tea dress and a richly tinted evening skirt, often used as a wardrobe. for business campaigns and watching books.)

Less nostalgic is a new signifier – a slice of geode that formed the first heel of Frances Valentine, now reappearing on ankle boots and turned into a closure for purses and a charm on larger bags – and the bag designed by Ms. Spade for Spring: An architectural puzzle of glossy painted rectangles or picnic plaid etched in beige leather.

Ms. Spade never saw the finished sample, but if she did, Ms. Arons said, "She would have raised her hands up and said," Love my love. " the exhibition hall and began to use it immediately. We always knew that she really liked something because she would disappear the next day. "

According to Ms. Arons, Ms. Spade has left enough ideas to feed many future collections. Tote bags filled with slippers from the Moroccan souk, tasseled rattan bags and piles of test patterns, all stored in the corners of the showroom.

"She's the best writer I know," said Ms. Arons, who tends to use the present when she talks about Ms. Spade, before catching up. "We would do all this work, and she would look and say," I love it, but we have to focus. "We could lose half of the collection, but we still have everything cut off, now we can do anything, and she would be happy about it.

Ms. Arons looked at another bag for spring, which features a classic portrait of a man – who happens to be Maltese from Katy and Andy, Po. "Her creations live here," she said.