Mom too! Gets a Positive Star in Pete Wells Times Review

Few people would say that New York's standard slice needs modifications – but Time critical Pete Wells gives some credit to the Upper West Side Mom too! for its different approach to the holy slice, attributing to the restaurant a star in the New York Times restaurant review.

Owner and pizzaiolo Frank TuttolomondoWells observes: "has learned to genetically modify a pizza." He writes:

The bulge of the crust at the edge of what Mama's Too calls the "slice of the house" is brown, rougher than smooth and fiercely cracked. You can tear it off and enjoy it alone, or maybe with butter or olive oil, just as with the best Neapolitans. Yet, the flat layer of crust on the bottom is firm, without the frizzy center of the Neapolitan style. True to the New York shape, you can keep it in the air by the curved edge and it will remain flat and parallel to the ground.

Before cooking, the raw dough, prepared with olive oil, is covered with low moisture mozzarella cheese, known as "pizza cheese", explains Wells, then sliced ​​with tomato pulp . "You could, I guess, think of the homemade part as a white pizza with a tomato sauce," he wrote. After cooking, Tuttolomondo overcomes the pies with grated two-year-old Parmigiano-Reggiano and basil leaves for the finishing touch.

Like any other classic store, pizza at Mama's Too! – which opened last December – can be enjoyed on a paper plate, but Wells says the flavors are up to classic pizzerias like Sorbillo, Ops and Una Pizza Napoletana.

In addition to the triangular Neapolitan slices, Tuttolomondo also offers squares that combine the Sicilian rectangular pizza and the Roman pizza al taglio. Wells describes the burnished and fringed cheese on the outskirts of these squares as "crisp and delicious". For the critics, the most impressive square is pepperoni, which contains tomato sauce, golden mozzarella and crunchy pieces of pepperoni covered in spicy red oil.

"Slices of pepperoni are small and concave, like meat contact lenses," writes Wells. "It may seem like I'm getting close to this slice with a cold analytical detachment. The truth is that I tore myself in as a group of hyenas. A star.