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Formerly a commercial event of the island industry, New York Fashion Week has turned into a high-priced, fast-paced, public-facing marketing opportunity. The shows are broadcast live, Instagrammed and tweeted live, immediately transmitting to the audience what is happening on the track.
Social media helping to democratize the industry, the conversations around the fashion week are not always centered on the clothes. Here are five of the larger conversations sparked by the spring-summer 2019 event.
Diversity on the track
The models pose behind the scenes at the Chromat Spring-Summer 2019 show. Credit: Monica Schipper / Getty Images
The fashion industry is, like our culture in general, more and more engaged in discussions about representation. More than ever, designers are forced to ask who should be seen – or excluded – on the track and why.
Chromat's founder, Becca McCharen-Tran, has long advocated for broader inclusion by launching on her runway a wide range of female, female and female models, with people of all shapes, sizes, ages and abilities. This season, his models wore swimsuits and sportswear, inspired by the idea of wearing t-shirts at parties at the pool in order to hide his body.
In addition, the British artist Patrick Church has confronted ageism with a series of printed combinations, tops and tight products made exclusively by elderly women. Tome's models – wearing durable pieces inspired by men's fashion – also represented different age groups. Meanwhile
Shanel Campbell, who dressed the likes of Solange and Teyana Taylor, made her debut at the event with a cast of all-black models and a predominantly black team working behind the scenes. And Marco Marco Underwear, who introduced everything from party dresses to leotards, hired a fully trans line. The show would have made history by bringing together the largest group of trans men ever used in a fashion show at New York Fashion Week.
T-shirts as political signs
Jeremy Scott walks his own trail in a shirt that says "Tell your non-Senator of Kavanaugh." Credit: Pietro D'aprano / FilmMagic / Getty Images
Fashion has always been political. But in recent years, designers have become less discreet with their words.
Jeremy Scott, for example, aired a 62-image show (apparently aimed at club kids) with words like "resist" and "riot" in a comic book font. The designer then took his bow in a T-shirt urging participants to contact their senators to protest against the appointment of Brett Kavanaugh to the United States Supreme Court.
Pyer Moss Spring-Summer 2019 Credit: ANGELA WEISS / AFP / Getty Images
Kerby Jean-Raymond, of the famous label Pyer Moss, used slogans like "See Us Now?" in its range – particularly powerful, as its brand is dedicated to celebrating and elevating the experiences of African Americans. One of the most evoked motifs of his line was a simple printed T-shirt with the words "Stop Calling 911 on Culture", a reference to recent high-profile incidents of unnecessary and racially motivated calls addressed to the American police. The $ 125 item was sold in a day after it was released.
Perfect collaborations
With fashion increasingly inspired by the streetwear market – rewarding partnerships and drop-outs – it is not surprising that several collaborations have been presented.
The luxury brand The Blonds, known for its exaggerated looks, is associated with Disney for a collection inspired by the studio's villains. Yes, Maleficent, Ursula and Cruella de Vil had their parade moments on the backs of Paris Hilton, Leiomy Maldonado and Patrick Starr, among others.
Paris Hilton walks the Disney Villains x The Blonds track. Credit: Paul Bruinooge / Patrick McMullan / Patrick McMullan via Getty Images
The Streetwear Kith label has hosted brands such as Ugg, New Balance and Levi's on its list of collaborators, in addition to producing collections for Tommy Hilfiger and Greg Lauren. In an unexpected version, the brand also unveiled a 24-face capsule collection with Versace, featuring fur jackets, tracksuits, biker shorts and more.
The fashion show as "pass"
With the proliferation of fashion shows and the growing role of social media, brands are opting for more and more dramatic fashion productions. What may have been a simple fashion show is now a high-powered party, with dancers, drones and live musicians.
To this end, Telfar, winner of the CFDA / Vogue Fashion Fund Award in 2017, presented his show on a heliport near the East River. With personalities such as Selah Marley and Moses Sumney, presided over by singer Ian Isiah and South African duo Faka, the event saw the audience watching behind a wire fence as artists roamed freely around a battery. .
Ralph Lauren Spring-Summer 2019 Credit: Pietro D'aprano / FilmMagic / FilmMagic ,,
Ralph Lauren was arguably the biggest (it was the 50th anniversary of the brand after all). He brought industry to Bethesda Terrace from Central Park, where Hillary Clinton, Kanye West and Donna Karan listened to Oprah pay homage to the creator. The fashion veteran also performed a cast spanning a range of ages and races, as well as a collection showing the company's expanse, from Polo Sport to RRL through to women's evening wear.
Rihanna steals the show
Rihanna closed New York Fashion Week with a show for her line of lingerie and intimacy, Savage X Fenty. And although the event started late (the organizers were waiting for the editors to come from the Marc Jacobs show), it has garnered almost universal praise.
Savage X Fenty Fall-Winter 2018 Credit: Kevin Mazur / Getty Images North America / Getty Images for Savage X Fenty
The show coincided with many of the week's trends: an elaborate production with dancers, choreographies, an incredibly produced ensemble and a wide range of models representing a variety of colors and sizes – including two pregnant models.
If Rihanna's celebrity was not enough, she also chose Bella and Gigi Hadid. With the repetition of lines such as "We know that beauty and the brain are not incompatible", and "We know that we can be as competent in the conference room as the bedroom" with Vogue – "a celebration of femininity."
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