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Although it is necessary for heritage brands like Carolina Herrera to cultivate the next generation of customers, should it be to the detriment of a loyal, albeit older, clientele?
Decades ago, Truman Capote's swans sprang to the forefront of fashion shows. Babe Paley and Slim Keith, CZ guests today, are Instagram influencers, girls like Nicky Hilton Rothschild and pop stars like Nicki Minaj.
At New York Fashion Week, the race is still in the spotlight to dress these women for charity balls, lunches and their own digital brand launches. And the last competitor to do so is Wes Gordon, who made his debut Monday as creative director at Herrera's house, after the retirement of Carolina Herrera, the last of the original women's watchmakers.
As a tribute to the brand's legacy, Herrera herself was on the front line of the Monday morning show at the New York Historical Society, in the middle of paintings by Robert L. Stuart's collection.e century merchant of sugar and philanthropist.
Gordon's parade was an explosion of Instagram colors, including the yellow hue of yellow calendula called "Gen Z" that is ubiquitous this season, dresses without shoulder bouncing off with ruffles and elongated blazers barely covering the miniskirts. . He tackled many of the emerging trends of the season, including crochet dresses, eyelet lace and polka dot print, but much of it did not seem to reach the level of luxury or sophistication that existing customers are used to. .
Indeed, a long-time customer in Boston said, "He was so young!" Although it is necessary for heritage brands like Herrera to cultivate the next generation of customers, should it be to the detriment of one? loyal buyer, though older?
Oscar de la Renta designers Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim have been looking for the right balance between the old and the new since they took over his creator's house two years ago. Showing their spring 2019 collection on the roof of Spring Studios, under cloudy skies, they achieved their best mix.
There was no complicated inspiration, nor any reference to highfalutin art, just a summer travelogue to Morocco, Croatia, Lake Como, India and to Mykonos, which resulted in an overall mix of references. their destination points, used on casual pants, a sarong skirt and a dress.
The designers have demonstrated versatility, intelligently offering what you might call mother-daughter versions of similar styles to satisfy new and old customers, such as superfan Nicki Minaj and her mom Carol Maraj. .
They paid tribute to Oscar himself by bringing back his poppy flower motif as thread embroidery on a Chinese lamb fur coat and accentuated the lure of props on Instagram, showing a minaudière in bird cage shape.
There was also something for everyone in silhouettes: easy tunics and pants, bustiers beaded with cigarette pants, kaftan dresses and feathery red carpet dresses.
Where Gordon's collection seemed to skimp on her, Oscar's collection oozed luxury, from red-leaf embroidery beaded to a gold-fringed one-shoulder cocktail dress swaying over a sleek black column.
Another name associated with the feminine look, the German fashion brand Escada made its leap into New York Fashion Week Saturday to attract the next generation.
Unfortunately, creative director Niall Sloan did not do much to update the brand A hard worker image showing silk blazers and pencil skirts in the 80s, worn with golden chain belts, tweed dresses with chewing gum and skirts and silk pleated dresses with horse print without irony.
He has styled them with pastel-colored toppers, at least the women licensors can now wear sneakers all day long, not just for commuting. But that was not enough.
New Escada, what new Escada? Just raid your mom's closet!
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