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Hello and good fashion week in London!
Yeah, it starts today – even if I leave tomorrow. I needed two days at home to see my family and do my laundry before taking the road until October 3rd.
These weeks are so frenetic that everything becomes blurry. Because of that, you know that when something has stayed with you, it's probably worth remembering. So, before I disappear into the wild Europe, I want to convey what, after seven fashion days in New York, made my top five list:
1. Pyer Moss of Kerby Jean-Raymond: Learn this name now. It was one of the best shows of the week, addressing the problem of running today with real resonance and remarkable style. Fashion can become tricky in politics, but Jean-Raymond has kept his balance. In addition, he made a lot of very good clothes.
2. The show and Ralph Lauren's 50th birthday party: even the most jaded, I made fun of the big ones in the park. Almost all of the American fashion establishment (plus Oprah, plus Hillary, plus Spielberg, plus more) came to honor Ralph, and he in turn honored the idea of the rainbow nation with a show as diverse as possible.
3. Trends to be aware of: do not brag about our own horns, but … still: the column "Thursday Styles Browsing" understood well when she named marigold the following millennial rose (by calling it "Gen Z Yellow "). It was on all tracks, including Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs, Brandon Maxwell and Carolina Herrera. So was the bangs. Be ready.
4. The influence of "rich and crazy Asians": The cast members of the end of the summer were (unsurprisingly) the front-line guests. Henry Golding is presented in a white jacket to Tom Ford and Awkwafina were at Longchamp, Opening Ceremony and Prabal Gurung, where she was joined by Gemma Chan. Does anyone want to bet how long does a brand take to get them back as official "ambassadors"?
5. Fear: Not Bob Woodward's book, but the impending fear. At Calvin Klein, Raf Simons took care of it with a good dose of humor thanks to "Jaws" and a very creative riff on diving clothes, but almost all designers have looked at the issue at a certain level , even if Michael Kors funfest floral "Xanax fashion."
For more details on the week, read all the reviews here, as well as party coverage, quirks and events. Not to mention this very strange phenomenon visible on the first rows everywhere: the prairie dress. I did not buy. But maybe you'll do it.
Do you speak about Milan.
Your style questions, answered
Every week on Open Thread, Vanessa will answer the fashion issue of a reader, which you can send to her anytime via E-mail or Twitter. This week's question came from a call on Instagram The questions are edited and condensed.
Q: I am a 29 year old man with a living wage and no significant debt. Yet I see such a disparity between the clothes that fit my budget, such as J. Crew and the high profile creators such as Tom Ford and YSL. Are there any male creators you follow that fit more to smaller budgets? Given the growing importance given to income inequality in the United States, have designers wishing to reach a broader financial audience changed course? Ben, Brooklyn
A: It's a good time to ask this question: men increasingly associate their lines with the track and the names of women like Prabal Gurung and The Row become men.
But in terms of economic sensitivity, awareness has been quite limited. The fast fashion collaborations that brought such names as Karl Lagerfeld, Alexander Wang and Victoria Beckham to a wide audience do not seem to have entered the world of men's clothing.
Opportunity!
While we wait for the brand to wake up about it, I asked Matthew Schneier, my fashion colleague who is about your age, what he would suggest. Here's what he said: "I pass my hand on almost every fashion purchase I make. Personally, I wear mostly affordable items with some small follies here and there. Uniqlo is a great resource for me and for many fashion editors I know. (My kingdom for a return of his collection Jil Sander-design + J.)
"One step ahead, Our Legacy, released in Sweden but available around the world, makes great men's clothing at a contemporary price. Same Fanmail, Brooklyn – cheap, by all means, but not at the level of Mr. Ford.
"Finally (and with my apologies to the brands), I became a militant shopper. If you can wait until the end of the season, you can find a ton at 25, 30, 50 and even 70% off. Wait even longer and things tend to recirculate in the booming consignment and resale market. With patience and a commitment to scroll down, I found favorite parts on sites like Grailed for prices much closer to my budget than the tag price. "
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