Tokyo's iconic fish market is about to lose 83 years of activity and grime



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Next week, most of Tsukiji's more than 800 stalls, which will sell 480 varieties of seafood and 270 types of fruits and vegetables, will be moved to new facilities worth $ 5.3 billion.

TOKYO – It will be difficult to replace 83 years of dirt.

While the wholesalers of Tokyo's famous seafood market, Tsukiji, opened Saturday for their last day on their usual site, they lamented with their customers the end of the grunge era.

"Dirty, it's better," said Yoshitaka Moria, 38, owner of a fish shop in Tokyo's Ota district, which regularly made seafood purchases in Tsukiji and was buying an assortment of tuna, bream, oysters and amberjack on Saturday morning. "It makes this place so alive. I know fishmongers work too much to clean up. "

In the last hours of the market, considered the largest in the world for seafood, the cobbled lanes, covered with lumps, spread over an area of ​​24 hectares, were dipped in bloody water and banned butts mingling with fragments of bone and guts.

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Over the coming week, most of Tsukiji's more than 800 stalls, which will sell 480 varieties of seafood and 270 types of fruits and vegetables, will leave their huge rusty steel frame chapel for sale. install in a new location where the city has built $ 5.3 billion fully enclosed and air-conditioned facilities.

"I feel so depressed," said Teruo Watanabe, 78, who has worked as a tuna wholesaler in Tsukiji for 60 years. "I do not like change."

Aside from a ceremony singing applauding at the end of the last Saturday tuna auction, nothing indicates that it is a normal day at the market.

Polystyrene crates filled with squid, abalone, mackerel, salmon eggs and tuna heads with gaping mouth were stacked very high. The middlemen who bought and sold here for decades sliced ​​fish sliced ​​on hatched wooden tables with thousands of knife nicks. Workers wearing oversized aprons and rubber waders threw live flounder on metal spring scales, shouting their weights.

By respecting hesitant pedestrians, standing drivers wove forklifts into the aisles. Merchants have compiled bills of abacuses or calculators for sale when the octogenarian emperor of Japan was still in his forties.

Tourist attraction

The Tsukiji market opened in 1935, replacing a fish market in Tokyo's Nihonbashi district, destroyed in an earthquake in 1923.

Just over a mile from the center of Tokyo's glitzy Ginza shopping district, Tsukiji has become one of Tokyo's most popular tourist attractions. Visitors line up for hours to attend the daily tuna auction each morning. Wholesalers sell an average of 1,540 tons of seafood a day and 985 tons of fruits and vegetables.

The Tokyo Metropolitan Government began talks nearly 20 years ago to move the wholesalers to Toyosu, about a mile away, on an island in Tokyo Bay that once housed a gas plant.

After years of delay in construction, a move was planned for 2016. But soon after Yuriko Koike was elected governor of Tokyo, she postponed the move after finding that the contaminants in the groundwater of the new site far exceeded the environmental limits.

The city hired experts to carry out numerous tests and installed additional concrete floors and water pumps in Toyosu. During the summer, Koike announced that the new site was secure and scheduled the move for October.

In the days leading up to the closure of Tsukiji on Saturday, rumors circulated among shop owners, saying the government had removed evidence of continued contamination. According to a survey, 80% of business owners are reluctant to move.

Mikio Wachi, 73, who has been running a tuna wholesaler for 48 years in Tsukiji, vowed not to move to Toyosu. Instead, he said, he would be transferred to another market in the Ota district of Tokyo.

Two protest posters hanging on the awning above his stand. "Relocation of Tsukiji Market: Absolutely Opposite!" While he was scraping fine tuna meat bones with a small wooden handled knife, he thought chemicals were still in the groundwater in Toyosu.

"It's like we have to spray chemicals on the fish before we sell it," he said.

Final flurry

Many pit owners feared losing customers during the move, citing higher parking fees and more difficult access.

Apart from the wholesale market, traders selling nuts, cheese, knives, beer, spices, cooking utensils and souvenirs have continued to peddle their stocks while packing cartons. Crowds lined up in sushi restaurants for hours, waiting for a last meal before the move.

Azusa Ushikubo, 45, an employee of the recruiting company who travels to Tsukiji for lunch every Saturday for the past 20 years, has decided to take a leap forward closing the day on Friday. She still waited three hours for lunch at Sushidai, one of the most popular restaurants on the market.

On Saturday, some Tokyoites who had never managed to travel to Tsukiji had previously made a pilgrimage for the last day.

Yumi Kondo, 46, an office worker at a passport agency, came with her 18-year-old daughter, Miyabi. At 9:30 am, they had queued for two hours at Nakaya, a sushi restaurant discovered online, and I still had at least an hour left. "The magazines indicated that there were always long queues," said senior Kondo. "We thought it would be worth it."

The Tsukiji wholesale market will be razed and the city plans to build a transit center for buses that will be used during the Tokyo Olympics in 2020. An adjacent retail section, with restaurants and sushi shops, will remain open to tourists.

One of the most worrying problems is about 10,000 rats that could be unleashed during the demolition period and new construction.

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