Why Princess Eugenie's Peter Pilotto wedding dress was a decidedly modern choice


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LONDON – Guests, celebrities and a handful of enthusiastic royalists traveled to Windsor on Friday for the second royal wedding in the city this year, that of Princess Eugenie and Jack Brooksbank.

And like Meghan, the Duchess of Sussex, who managed to keep the designer behind her wedding dress until she arrived on the steps of St. George's Chapel in May, Princess Eugenie, 28, left her the spectators guess until the last minute. However, the youngest daughter of Prince Andrew and Sarah Ferguson, ninth in the British throne, had given several clues as to his brand of choice in the months leading up to his big day.

"I do not tell anyone who makes it, but I can say that it's a British designer," said the princess at British Vogue this summer. The dress, she said, "is the only thing for which I've been really decisive. As soon as we announced the wedding, I knew immediately the designer and the look. "

On a windy autumn morning where guests were literally holding their hats, the big revelation has finally arrived. The princess chose Peter Pilotto, a London-based fashion house with two creative directors, Mr. Pilotto and his partner, Christopher de Vos, to create a stunning silk jacquard dress that seemed to be the perfect choice for a princess of the times modern.

The dress was simple and elegant: white, pure and sculptural with long sleeves, a portrait neckline folded around her shoulders and a specially designed rounded back that highlighted the scars of the bride who had been operated to straighten her spine. In a television interview this week, the princess had hinted that she wanted her wedding dress to wear scars while she was paying tribute to the hospital and the doctors who had operated on her. in 2002 following a diagnosis of scoliosis.

"I am a protector of their call," said the princess in an interview with "This Morning" on ITV, "because I was operated at the age of 12 years. You'll see it on Friday, but it's a great way to honor the people who care for me and to defend the young people who have them too. I think you can change the way beauty is, and you can show your scars to people, and I think it's really special to stand up for that. "

Breaking with tradition, the bride did not wear a veil. She wore, however, the dazzling Emerald Kokoshnik of Greville diadem, lent by his grandmother, Queen Elizabeth II. Created by Boucheron, a French jewelery firm in 1921, the tiara is made of brilliant-cut and pink diamond pavé set in platinum, with six emeralds on each side of the main stone. She was bequeathed by Lady Margaret Greville to Queen Elizabeth in 1942. In addition, MM. Pilotto and Vos had created the dress from a custom jacquard fabric featuring symbols representing the bride as a motif. A thistle representing Scotland pays tribute to the king's beloved couple, Balmoral, the Queen's estate in Scotland, for example, while the Irishman winks at Princess Eugenie's Ferguson family.

The bride also wore Charlotte Olympia shoes and a pair of diamond earrings and emeralds, a wedding gift offered by Mr. Brooksbank on her wedding day, which she attended for eight years after the wedding. To have met during a skiing holiday in Verbier, Switzerland.

Pilotto and M. de Vos, who met for the first time during their studies at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Belgium, are best known for their colorful and graphic aesthetic, exhibited at their most recent fashion show at London Fashion Week. last month. But unlike Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen and Clare Waight Keller of Givenchy, the designers who created the wedding dresses of the Duchess of Cambridge and the Duchess of Sussex are neither MM. Pilotto nor de Vos. The British have made the choice of Princess Eugenie, whether consciously or not, an excellent example of the complications and potential consequences of imminent Brexit, and of what "Britain" means. The designers are rather Italo-Austrian (Mr. Pilotto) and Belgian-Peruvian (Mr. de Vos). Although based in London since launching his eponymous brand in 2007, Mr. Pilotto also stated that with 70% of his team born outside of Britain (including himself and Mr. Vos) , according to the terms negotiated as part of the British withdrawal. of the European Union "people will have to migrate again. "

Mr Brooksbank, 32, European director of Casamigos Tequila, the alcohol brand founded by Hollywood actor George Clooney, hailed their efforts.

"You look perfect," he said as his wife joined him at the altar.

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