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PARIS (AP) – It was the last curtain of Karl Lagerfeld, even though he was not there.
Celebrities, models and peers in the fashion industry who met on Tuesday at the Chanel fashion show held a minute of silence to say good-bye to the iconic designer, who died last month and did not want funerals. public.
Her final collection for the Parisian house, co-designed by the new artistic director Virginie Viard, was then presented at the Grand Palais in Paris in a cinematographic setting: a mountain village covered with peaceful snow above the clouds.
One could say that it was the track in the sky of Lagerfeld.
Stars, including Penelope Cruz, spoke in front of the Associated Press to pay homage to the legend that left an indelible mark on the global fashion industry over a six-decade career.
Some highlights of Paris Fashion Week:
FINAL SENDOFF OF LAGERFELD
Designer Lagerfeld had clearly indicated his dislike for a public burial. Thus, Chanel's autumn-winter parade, the last collection of a couturier who had designed hundreds of them, was an appropriate shipment.
The show featured both genuine emotion and an ironic show, Lagerfeld's trademark.
Prior to the parade, her models, including Cruz, solemnly stood in the fake snow near an alpine chalet and resting ski equipment. A soft bell sounds as poignant recordings of Lagerfeld's voice resound and resound in the huge hall.
Among the guests, actresses Marion Cotillard and Kristen Stewart, models Claudia Schiffer and Naomi Campbell, singer Janelle Monae and editor-in-chief of American Vogue Anna Wintour observed a minute of silence. Many cried.
At a time that perfectly captured Lagerfeld's universe, the initial silence was interrupted by the barking of a small white dog held in a Chanel shopping basket sparkling by a guest in the front row.
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A CLASSIC CHANEL COLLECTION
The show used the alpine theme as a touchstone to produce a classic Chanel winter collection.
It was a matter of keeping warm, with short boots protected under fedoras of tweed which the house said belonged to "elegant mountaineers". .
They were paired with contrasting patterns – such as ponytails in wide, baggy pants – to produce an intelligent visual kinesis.
Ethnic and alpine motifs are paired with white patterns on arched and belted trapeze skirts. Ski clothing is available in vibrant shades of pink, blue and red.
The mandatory tweed jackets this season were lined with a thick braid of wool.
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THE FUTURE OF CHANEL
This was the first official collaboration between Lagerfeld and his longtime studio head, Virginie Viard, who will succeed him at home.
Just like Chanel creations, the creative transfer appeared flawless.
This is perhaps not surprising: although Viard has had no official role as a designer so far, she is known to have worked closely with the deceased designer through all channels of creative work. Chanel, including sewing.
It is too early to say if Viard will direct the plant in a new direction, but there are signs.
The fact that Chanel chose someone who worked in the exuberant shadow of Lagerfeld for years indicates that he hopes to pursue his financially successful vision and approach that catapulted the iconic home of nature. Creative 1980s in the multibillion dollar power it is today.
The management could have chosen a successor with the big and splashing name, such as the former Lanvin designer, Alber Elbaz, an icon of the sector, who is currently unemployed.
The fact that they do not talk about it a lot.
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THE STARS REMEMBER LAGERFELD
Penelope Cruz, who modeled in the Chanel show, shared the memory of a midnight walk with Lagerfeld in New York in December.
"For me, it was a magical moment: walking hand in hand through the winter in Central Park to hear her wonderful and fun stories," she said.
Cruz said she would remember the kindness of Lagerfeld, whom she had dreamed of meeting since her childhood. She recalled that he had taken care of his father during a chic dinner in Paris.
"Since he was kind and respectful to my father, even if they did not speak the same language, it always stayed with me," she told the AP.
American singer and songwriter Janelle Monae expressed her surprise at receiving a drawing that Lagerfeld drew during a show in Russia.
"He was sitting in a theater. I was on stage. And he sat there all the time and drew me dancing, "she said. "I did not know that his talents were so great."
Monae said to still have it "in a small box in my house. It's very emotional.
German fashion photographer Ellen von Unwerth recalled that she always spoke in her mother tongue with the German-born polyglot creator, after every broadcast of Chanel, comparing her to "being in a bubble between thousands of people".
She said that Lagerfeld, who had hidden behind glasses – known as his mask – took it off once in front of her.
She said he turned to her and said, "I do not like to show my eyes. Because they look sad.
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LOUIS VUITTON CREATES THE CENTER POMPIDOU
Louis Vuitton has staged an incredible reproduction of one of the most famous and controversial buildings in Paris: the Pompidou Center.
The guests, including actresses Emma Stone, Alicia Vikander and Jennifer Connelly, gathered in an annex located inside the oldest courtyard of the Louvre and traveled the world with curiosity discovering another monument in Paris with her famous piping blue, white, red and green.
The connection between the decor and the clothes was somewhat tenuous, apart from the colorful elements of the geometry.
The designer Nicolas Ghesquiere was inspired mainly by the spirit of the surroundings of Pompidou, in the lively city center of Paris.
"It's the fascinating incubator of a neighborhood … I love this impression of a sartorial melting pot," he said.
Many of the 57 slinky models of the 80s were tightened by a wide belt buckle at the waist.
And although Ghesquiere has earned a reputation for minimalism, this collection is simply full of animated details.
Touches of bright colors have created contrasts in sets emphasizing the neck.
A series of Mondrian drawings and geometric prints evoke paintings exhibited at Pompidou, which houses the National Museum of Modern Art in France.
But they fell on heavy hands, delivered in too bright colors.
The varied collection included a lot of beautiful clothes, but it was a little difficult to pin down.
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MIU MIU GETS DARK
Miuccia Prada was another designer who featured the stars in the art-infused collection of her younger sister, Miu Miu, in Paris.
Actors Joel Edgerton and Chloé Sévigny joined Game of Thrones star Gwendoline Christie in the front row.
A mood darker than normal has invaded the fall-winter patterns.
Models with sharp black capes or camouflage print of the 90s slightly carved scrolled next to a decor consisting of works of art with screens projecting dark and figurative images of characters and of contemporary life.
Black tights came on all 48 looks
This season, Prada adorned the neck with silk knots, ribbons and circular fur bands in the styles of the 70s.
At one point, the dark reverie turned into joy: the camouflage print blossoms into a set of vibrant flowers on casual skirts with the mighty flowers of the 70s.
It was a tip – typical of the atypical designer.
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Thomas Adamson is at Twitter.com/ThomasAdamson_K
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This story has been corrected to correct the spelling of Janelle Monae's last name.
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