Will a "fashion pact" make fashion greener?



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PARIS – Friday, Francois-Henri Pinault, chief executive of Kering, plans to unveil the details of a fashion pact. that he must present to world leaders at the top of the Group of 7 this weekend.

The agreement sets out the group's commitments focused on climate, biodiversity and oceans. It is defined as "a set of guidelines" and will not be legally binding. The 32 signatories, including high-end brands such as Chanel, Prada and Hermès; sportswear names like Nike and Adidas; as well as fast fashion retailers such as H & M Group and Inditex, Zara's parent company, announce that they will apply the proposed changes to their own operations. No punitive measures will be imposed if these objectives are not achieved.

"The global challenges we face are complex," said Mr. Pinault. written in an email Thursday. "They do not know borders. Only coalitions can overcome them, bringing together governments, companies and civil societies. "

"This fashion pact is to say: we have recognized the environmental problems of the 21st century and we are assuming our responsibility through collective action and common goals."

Examining the impact of the fashion industry on the global climate crisis has reached new heights in recent months as consumer pressure to reduce their carbon footprint has prompted many brands to publish updated commitments on sustainable development.

Globally, the fashion industry is responsible for about 10% of all greenhouse gas emissions, according to the United Nations, 20% of all wastewater and consumes more energy than the combined aviation and international shipping sectors.. But confusion over data on fashion and sustainable development has compounded the problems of companies facing problems for the sector.

The expected growth of the global clothing and footwear market, estimated by Euromonitor analysts at around 5% by 2030, is likely to "put unprecedented pressure on global resources", according to Euromonitor analysts. a recent report from Euromonitor. According to the British Ellen MacArthur Foundation, a British organization dedicated to building a circular economy, emissions from textile production will increase by more than 60% by 2030 if the sector remains on its current trajectory.

"Significant change will begin here, given the number and scale of companies that have agreed to be part of this pact, and it's extremely exciting," said Marie-Claire Daveu, Sustainability Manager. at Kering.

Representatives of the participating fashion houses will join Mr. Pinault Friday at the Elysee for this announcement, French President Emmanuel Macron having asked the Kering Executive to take charge of brand promotion.

A follow-up meeting confirming more detailed commitments will take place in October, said Ms. Daveu. For the moment, details on specific targets remain vague. Progress must be reported voluntarily each year by the companies themselves.

To fight the climate crisis, the signatories commit to implementing "science goals" that could help reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 2050. They can include sustainable sourcing. in essential raw materials and 100% use of renewable energy in supply chains in: 2030.

Ms. Daveu defended the fact that there will be no punitive measures for signatories who do not achieve their goals.

"It's not a regulatory issue," she said. "We can not punish groups directly. But by committing to improving collective transparency, the parties to this pact are encouraged to stick to the objectives and not to fall behind. "

Several fashion officials made public statements about the pact. "We know that a single company can not solve the environmental problems facing our planet alone, and we believe in the power of collaboration to generate real change," said Marco Gobbetti, CEO of Burberry, in a statement. A press release. "The goals of the Fashion Pact align strongly with our own work in this area and we look forward to working with other signatories to help transform our industry."

Some big names, such as LVMH Moët Hennessy and Louis Vuitton, the world's largest luxury group in terms of sales, have distinguished themselves by their absence from the lineup..

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