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This week, a new Chinese and American restaurant opened in New York. It would usually be a trivial event in a city where new restaurants are opening regularly, but this was different from the fact that its owner, Arielle Haspel, is a white woman who has been scrutinized for her image of his restaurant brand, Lucky Lee, Chinese food is "too fat" and salty, claiming in a deleted Instagram post since it gives the impression that people are feeling "ballooned and disgusting". This is not a brilliant gesture.
A word about Haspel: she is probably partially under fire because of her dumb marketing strategy, but also because she is a Wannabe type of influencer-in-shape; a nutritionist focused on "clean eating". The New York Times reports that Lucky Lee "The whole menu is gluten-free, dairy-free, wheat-free, corn-free, peanut-free, cashew-free and pistachio-free … We use GMO-free oil and never refined sugar, MSG or colorant. food. I wonder how the food gets its flavor, but I keep it away from the subject.
The basic complaints against Haspel relate to his hateful comments about Chinese cuisine, which are naturally frustrating for many Chinese and Sino-American restaurateurs who appreciate their unique culinary history. Racial insensitivity is also more credible than in other cultural scandals related to cultural appropriation. An article in Time magazine in 2016 dealt with the Americanization of Chinese cuisine and how American-Chinese cuisine adapted to American palates:
Regardless of its dubious authenticity, such an adaptation of Chinese cuisine to American palaces has been a key element in the proliferation and popularization of Chinese cuisine in the United States. At the beginning of the 20th century, 'Chinese' dishes became sweeter, boneless and deeply fried. Broccoli, an unprecedented vegetable in China, began to appear on menus and fortune cookies, a cake that was believed to have originated in Japan, completed a "typical" Chinese meal.
(For more details, David Chang's "Ugly Delicious" explores how American palaces are still not interested in the range of textures of traditional Chinese cuisine.)
Haspel is actually trying to capitalize on the love of Americans for unconventional Chinese cuisine, while trying to bet on the trend of clean eating and the richness and richness of food (know that you have just eaten) is not exclusive to New York, of course.)). This is all the more ironic as Chinese food has become less "clean" to adapt to American preferences, the irony seems a little lost for Haspel. It's not a capital offense, but it's always frustrating.
Nevertheless, God bless the free market to allow him to see a gap in food options for people suffering from allergies, celiac disease, etc., and to have chosen to fill it. If it's actually one type of food desired for this group, Haspel will probably come out very well, and maybe some of the supposedly sensitive social justice proponents and well-intentioned who get mad at her should also consider that she's taking care of people who have major medical problems.
People's anger may also have to do with the fact that Haspel seems to want to try to crush people's eyes. She named the restaurant "Lucky Lee's" in honor of her husband, Lee. As noted by a blogger:Oh man. Someone from GI had already posted this message, but if her husband's name was "Chad", would she have named this restaurant Lucky Chad's? "Sub in" Justin "or" Shane ", and the thought experiment continues to work.It seems a little that Haspel has the sense of the brand, but did not expect that people would do as much Jester, as he is naive to the day and age of the Internet!
In principle, I do not think that there is should be a hard and fast moratorium on whites cooking crops food they can not claim. This will limit the range of good dishes and unnecessarily limit people's creative freedom. All this put aside, stacking a single woman – while you might be frustrated by the more complex inheritance of how Chinese food has been treated in America – seems a little too much to you.
Yet the nuance is lost when we talk about cultural appropriation and food: the end product could simply be less good and a crappy representation of the food genre, if the person creating it has no idea of what she does and does not want to learn. In addition, it is frustrating for those who have worked to show the American public the nuances of their food culture.
Of course, Haspel may not be targeting a Chinese audience at all. Maybe she's looking for people who wear "all-day rosé" shirts and are looking for gluten-free names after Soulcycle (the most cringeworthy type of person possible, but whatever, they still need to eat).
Haspel certainly deserves a little criticism for his rudeness, but not for a complete network of social media (in fact, very few people deserve monsters! They are bad for our soul). The market will decide if his restaurant stays afloat or not (the first critics suggest that the food is not good). This is another excellent function of the glorious free market that gives and removes.
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