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MILAN – The Milan Fashion Week shows on Friday night highlighted a world in transition.
Ermenegildo Zegna has invited guests to an old, abandoned, empty steel mill in the suburbs of Milan that symbolizes both the deindustrialization of the region and offers renaissance opportunities through a major redevelopment plan.
In a green oasis in the heart of the city, Stella McCartney presented a literary and activist vision of fashion and the world, praising her message of sustainability.
Some highlights:
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ZEGNA REUSE THE PAST
Alessandro Santori signed the collection for Ermenegildo Zegna XXX with two costumes that summed up his disciplined and yet supernatural mind: the light, single-buttoned jumpsuit that opened had an impression of fading block, the color of a stain of cappuccino, while his purple twin fence had a burst capture a rainbow.
The models swooped down a dark gravel track under the steel roof of the decommissioned steel mill in sturdy boots. But there was nothing comparable in the looks, calculated casual. Ties were hung in suits, suede jackets were worn with elegant striped trousers and short-sleeved leather jackets with architectural pockets.
Textiles, some made from fabric cuttings or made from recycled plastics, have been reworked to create a crinkled effect on tailored pants and tailors, while prints have a hazy and shaded effect, as if looked through a window damaged by rain or an enlarged negative.
The flat caps were worn upside down, and the glasses offered colorful contrasts. The bags included sunglasses cases, leather notebooks for the traveler, and larger bags.
The colors – base cream, gray and lavender, with shades of glossy green and peacock blue – played beautifully against the stormy sky.
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THE ACTIVISM OF STELLA MCCARTNEY
A group walked into Stella McCartney's garden party, playing happily. McCartney paused in conversation and observed with delight: "We are listening to Ob-La-Di, Ob-La-Da, which my father wrote."
The McCartney Men's and Women's Collection celebrated the Beatles, literature through a collaboration with Jonathan Safran Foer and, like all his collections, sustainability.
"It's 60% durable, the collection, which is really hard to achieve," said the designer. This includes organic cotton, durable viscose, regenerated nylon called ECONYL and recycled polyester.
For the men, she wore t-shirts inspired by "Yellow Submarine" and another who made fun of her: "Eco Weirdo". Women's outfits celebrate spring with flounces and floral dresses. And the collaboration between Safron and Foer gave inscriptions on clothes, such as "Let's go, believe, live" and "We are completely free to live differently", inspired by his book "We are the Weather", a call to # 39; action. on climate change.
The rest of the world of luxury fashion has been hard to catch up with McCartney, whose etiquette was founded with the fundamental belief in sustainability, born from his childhood to becoming a vegetarian on an organic farm and what to do. she called "her animal consciousness, and not wanting to kill animals."
"It's really the next conversation, and it's a harder conversation to have," McCartney said.
His mantra is to make things fun and embrace all the positive changes in the fashion industry.
"For me, I think we are an activist, Stella McCartney is a house, and we accept change … We want it to be positive and exciting and we want to bring solutions," she said. declared. "We do not want a panic, we do not want to preach, we want to celebrate life and make the world a little better."
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