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PARIS – The deployment continued in Paris on Wednesday afternoon, as an army of international fashion editors settled in a glossy shop in the Marais. There was a heavy presence of security on the outside and crushed velvet sofas on the inside.
They were present during the first official viewing of the first collection of the first black designer at the first house created by luxury group LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton.
They were there, in other words, for Rihanna. But she was not found. She was discreetly informed about the meeting by running a little late. Almost three hours, to be exact.
Meanwhile, Jay Brown, Rihanna's longtime director, was occupying the fort, while guests were quick to read the first Fenty line, which will go on sale on May 29th. (The space where the editors were gathered would be an ephemeral store opening Friday.)
"I'm overwhelmed, she's submerged, it's a major event in Rihanna's life, but also the team here," Brown said, adding that "98%" of the team was now based in Paris, including Jahleel Weaver. , a former stylist who is now director of the brand's style. (Rihanna herself is based in London.)
"To say that it is a perfectionist, it would take it lightly," said Mr. Brown. "She has been obsessive about getting this right. No matter what others think, she is extremely proud of it and really got to work. "
The woman in question did not look worse at wearing when she finally appeared – dominating in stiletto heels, practically glowing in a white corset dress, a glass of champagne clasped in her hand and an enthusiasm for the first collection – named Release 5 -19 for the month and year, it will be available – on his lips.
Her design inspirations, she says, has come from everywhere, especially from his immigrant trip, from Barbados to America and now to London and Paris. "Angles, textures, colors – I film them all the time, the bookmarks, put them in my folders, and send them to Jahleel," she said. "Later, we have a conversation. And I hope the magic operates. "
As for this magic? An ever-bold, oversized and fitted silhouette has emerged as the backbone of the collection, with the corset construction and shoulders emanating power becoming another hallmark. Check out the series of Japanese denim jackets with cargo pockets and flared pants, a coral pink blazer with feminine structured curves and an iconic corset blazer dress with exaggerated shoulders. Also banana bags that served as belts tightening the waist.
"It's about creating a style for women that gives them a sense of strength and beauty," Rihanna said as she stood next to a floor-to-ceiling tower of wraparound frameless sunglasses in a range of kaleidoscopic shades. "So, in my case, and for this particular drop, it's about making pieces that fit my shape, but also make me look at the waist."
Poplin or white striped shirts, some with sheepskin sleeves or matching shorts and skirts, took on a more casual line, like many variants of large structured pants. In fact, many models, such as the new Fenty stilettos, with cutouts and a fiercely pointed toe, were offered to adults for a wide variety of heel heights.
That the sizes proposed by this first collection, which goes up to 46 French (an American 14), Covering a wider range than most traditional luxury homes was a priority, said Rihanna. Above her – above all – lay the new Fenty silver graphic logo, inspired by a Greek key motif.
Prices, which start at around $ 200 for a t-shirt and go up to about $ 1,500 for outerwear, have been the subject of ongoing debate. Rihanna acknowledged that only a small fraction of her tens of millions of fans would be able to buy a $ 1,100 dress, but she finally said that "luxury could not cost $ 30".
"It must be something more," she said. "The cheapest parts are also present, and it was very important to me, but it was the same for the creation of a quality-based company. And real costs of quality. "
"Fenty has been my baby since the beginning, but the last few months have really been a learning process, both professionally and personally," she continued. "We now have such a wealth of know-how, with a core design team of about 12 people here in Paris, who are truly the best in the industry. It's humbling to see them help me shape my vision so that it goes where we needed it. They inspire me to be better and I feel that we make it work. "
She congratulated LVMH for being flexible with its many commitments, as well as for supporting a fully direct model to the consumer.
"Mr. Arnault has been great, even if he's not stupid," she said. "He's a very smart guy and he's very open."
As for Mr. Weaver, she said, "We have a brother and a sister who look like a relationship. It's not like we all agree on everything, of course not. But what we have is a deep sense of trust towards each other. If he says something is good or bad, I respect his opinion and vice versa. You need someone like him in the surrounding area.
When asked if she was worried about the reception of her work by critics and fans, Rihanna shrugged.
"I'm not nervous," she said. "If you constantly worry about what people think, you can sometimes end up hating yourself, so I'm just not going to think about it. In the end, some people will like it. Maybe some people will not be. But it's like my albums: the only way to spread in the world is if I really like it and I'm proud of it. Take it or leave it."
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