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Refinery29
How Rejina Pyo made a difference
As the pandemic struck and the fashion week theater could no longer physically take place, calls for the industry to slow down, take stock and consider its environmental impact and rapid production grew. reflected on social media. “I thought, great! Everyone’s talking about the same thing, ”Seoul-born, London-based designer Rejina Pyo told Refinery29. Then SS21 took place in September and almost all of the designers on the London Fashion Week program produced a virtual show, which was broadcast on YouTube or Instagram. “Wait a minute,” Pyo thought to himself, “this [is] the perfect opportunity to make a difference. And that’s what she did. Fashion month has long ended. The current biannual calendar is modeled after an outdated era when the only way for editors and buyers to see a new collection was in person, six months before it hit stores to allow time for photographing, reviewing and d ” print publications for their clients to view. Now, however, we have the internet and the collections are seen by the world within minutes of being taken to the catwalks. “People would text me after a show asking when they could buy something they just saw, and I would say, ‘Ummm… not for another six months!’ We would present the spring / summer collection in September, just before the onset of a cold winter and no one could wear it. People aren’t really interested in the season of a piece, they just want a beautiful dress or skirt that fits into their wardrobe. Pyo released her SS21 collection on Thursday as we emerge from a cold and cruel January on lockdown, as we start to expect longer, warmer, and more hopeful spring days. “It’s exciting to align the fashion calendar with the real lives of women, to be even more involved with them,” she says. “I’m not saying we’ll never do a show again – I miss the excitement, the handling of the music and the venue; it’s such a special time – but the focus of a fashion show has changed tremendously and, for now, we are taking this opportunity to do something else. Instead of a runway show, Pyo returns to the format of his SS18 collection, which has seen him collaborate with a variety of women – mothers and jewelry designers, writers and painters – to showcase the clothes. This time around, artists Conie Vallese and Cassi Namoda, as well as musicians Soyoon and Kwamie Liv are featured in the campaign, which will be released in the coming weeks. “I wanted to introduce our audience to these amazing artists from all over the world and show the collection in context rather than far enough away on a model. Personally and as a brand, I’m not just interested in fashion – I love all aspects of life. I want to know what this inspiring woman reads, what she eats, how she is inspired. What provides Pyo with a locked-out artistic sustenance? “I started painting in oils in my garden shed! I love reading back issues of World of Interiors and Architectural Digest. My husband is a chef and we wrote a cookbook together, Our Korean Kitchen, so whenever I’m bored at home, I cook Korean food. Creating clothes that truly match the lives of real women is what Pyo does best. This is what sets her apart from her contemporaries in 2017, when she launched her first collection at London Fashion Week SS18, three years after founding her eponymous brand. This is what has earned her cult status both within and outside the industry, which has caused her Greta dress and Olivia bag to sell repeatedly and her pieces to be emulated by the main street season after season. Whether it is his ability to infuse collections with a nod to the past – a dagger collar here, a bowling shirt there – without succumbing to vintage pastiche, or his talent for creating an It bag, Pyo’s followers have come from there. to anticipate several aesthetic codes. For us, it is his eye for color. “When people ask me where I get my color inspiration from, they almost want me to say, ‘Yes, I have this trend forecasting book I’m working on! She said laughing. “It’s very instinctive and personal, but I like what happens when you put two colors next to each other – each combination is different. An eggplant purple next to a mint green is not the same when placed next to a buttery yellow. It’s like they’re having a conversation, it’s a chemical synergy, like they’re dating. Serving as a generous ball of escape, Pyo’s SS21 collection vibrates with pungent hues made to be worn with an aperitif. From California poppy orange to Granny Smith green to fiery red rust, even the softest colors – think buttermilk yellow and sweet olive – are making an impact. “This collection reminds me of punchy Italian granita and gelato,” Pyo says. Is it first on her wishlist when international travel is safe again? “I think my mind is still there!” she laughs. “There’s never a time when I don’t want southern Italy; the food… even the colors are different. I love seeing how Italians live their life away from the tourist spots. Travel is at the heart of the collection for another reason as well. Pyo spent the start of the pandemic in her husband’s native Ireland, but soon traveled to Korea to be with her own family and work on the collection at her company’s second base. “We didn’t know how long we were going to stay, and it got worse here, so we ended up there for almost four months. Having spent only two weeks at a time in Korea since leaving 13 years ago, the change of pace “was a real experience,” but it was the people she was with who inspired her the most. “I spent so much time with my family and childhood friends – who in turn have children – it felt like I was almost going back to my childhood.” A childish playfulness is always present in her pieces, whether through an unexpected color accord, a kitsch print or an offbeat silhouette. How does Pyo avoid taking herself too seriously? “That’s what set our brand apart from the start,” she told herself. “We have always been very inclusive rather than exclusive. Life is too short to be serious all the time. I admire how carefree and free-spirited children are – they are the best artists in the world. Even during the lockdown, the literature that inspired the designer is centered around kids: the book you want your parents to read (and your kids will be glad they did) and How to Talk so kids would listen and listen. for the children to talk. “They aim to become better communicators, but it’s amazing, when you read them you realize that you don’t communicate that way with your partner, friends or coworkers either.” Along with a lavish and unexpected use of color, one of Pyo’s calling cards is his dexterity with contemporary tailoring. From SS18’s fuchsia zoot suit to the pointy satsuma blazer that stole our hearts at Resort 2021, its cut never clashes with its hyper-feminine dresses, but in keeping with them. This collection includes a casual oiled navy jacket and cropped pants, as well as a midi skirt suit in light natural linen. “I’m inspired by the way people I know wear tailoring,” she says. “Skinny or relaxed, feminine or boxy, suit jackets are so empowering – if you’re feeling ‘meh’ you can put one on and feel like a powerful woman. Did Pyo keep the formalities going during the lockdown or give way to loungewear like the rest of us? “When it first happened, I thought, what’s the point? and I stayed in my most comfortable clothes. Then it hit me, I got really slow and not very inspired. I realized I needed that excitement that comes with dressing me up. It changes your attitude, even the way you sit. Dressing for myself and not for others is what motivated me again. Life has changed so much for many of us, but the ability of fashion to transform you and transport you elsewhere? This feeling cannot be taken away. Rejina Pyo SS21 is now available to purchase here. Like what you see? 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