At Paris Fashion Week, designers showcased a sexy summer dresscode

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Fiona Sinclair Scott, CNN, Nick Remsen, CNN, Samantha Tse, CNN | Photo edited by Natalie Yubas

“Back to business” might have been the way to describe the latest edition of Paris Fashion Week if the clothing on display hadn’t been so wonderfully inappropriate for most traditional workplaces.

Part of a trend that has started to take hold in previous fashion weeks in New York, London and Milan, sexy and low-key models have appeared in numerous catwalks and presentations. Hems were high and bellies were exposed as designers bared body parts that many of us have kept wrapped in loungewear during the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic.

The nineties and the early hours continued to dominate as well, with many brands offering their high fashion take on the often questionable street style of a generation of flip phone users. (Scroll down to Miu Miu on the mini “is it a belt or is it a skirt?”).

And while previously seen themes of public health, lockdown and uncertainty have largely been dropped this season, the week ended with a moving tribute to the late designer Alber Elbaz, died of Covid-19 in April, reminding participants that the pandemic is far from over.

Read on for more impressions from Paris Fashion Week.

The great shows are back

After months of pandemic disruption, more brands than ever have chosen to return to the physical spectacle format and some of them have gone big – and neither has French luxury house Balmain. To celebrate the 10 years of creative director Olivier Rousteing with the brand, a huge show was organized at La Seine Musicale de Paris on a river island, in the western suburbs of the city. The two-day event was both a music festival and a collection unveiling. The parade opened with a pre-recorded audio message from Beyoncé, praising Rousteing’s efforts to “continue to push this door wider open, ensuring that others can also have the opportunity to make their dreams come true” throughout. of her career.

Meanwhile, Parisian fashion staple Saint Laurent returned to her favorite haunt, the Eiffel Tower, and Chanel sparked joy on Tuesday with an event that took the runway format back to the ’80s, when models turned to strutted and whirled on the track to the delight of the garish photographers who flanked the stage. In the parade notes, the brand’s creative manager, Virginie Viard, wrote that she loved “the sound of flashes from the parades in the 80s” and that she wanted to recreate that atmosphere for today.

Balenciaga arguably made the headlines when he brought the characters from the “Simpsons” to fashion week, thanks to a 10-minute episode produced exclusively for the brand. The episode was broadcast live at the Théâtre du Châtelet after a red carpet that surreptitiously sowed the new collection among publishers, buyers, models, celebrities and friends of the house.

On the return of the fashion show, Rick Owens, who gave his first show in Paris since the start of the pandemic, told CNN Style, “Everyone is going to want to flex. Everyone is going to want to show that they are stronger than ever, that they are more powerful than ever. It’s a bit awful, but I understand.

Climate-friendly fashion

British designer Stella McCartney, well known for her early and constant dedication to sustainable fashion design, made the last-minute decision to host a show in Paris after hosting a series of virtual events at the height of the pandemic. Set in a trippy modernist building designed by Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer, the show opened with a voiceover by mycelium expert Paul Stamets, who starred in the 2019 documentary “Fantastic Fungi” on healing properties , regenerative and sustainable mushroom, stating that, “In fashion, mushrooms are the future. On the catwalk, the brand presented its latest ‘leather’ handbag in Mylo, a brand material derived from mushrooms, developed by Bolt Threads The new collection is made from 63% environmentally friendly materials, according to a press release.

At Louis Vuitton, where a series of elaborate headdresses and eyewear stood out amid a rich, layered collection, a protester stormed the runway with a sign reading “Overconsumption = Extinction,” before be removed by security. Suspicious minds have questioned whether the brand was in the game, but Louis Vuitton declined to comment on the incident.

Marine Serre, one of France’s most promising young designers, continued to focus on conscious design with her latest collection, which she presented via a short film. As a starting point for this season, Serre wrote in the show’s notes that she wanted to imagine “what the future might look like if we were to change our habits and think more deeply about the food we eat, the way we move in life and the clothes we wear. According to the brand, the collection was made from 45% recycled materials and 45% reclaimed materials, making it its most enduring effort at this day.

The return of sexy

In a radical departure from low-key pandemic dress codes, overtly sexy outfits have been seen everywhere. Chanel showcased a series of black and white ’90s-inspired swimsuits, while Miu Miu offered low-cut mini skirts reminiscent of those worn by Paris Hilton and Nicole Richie at the height of their “The Simple Life” fame.

Lacoste, Valentino and Chloe all featured stripped down looks, and Stella McCartney had fun with cutouts in her aerial collection.

Diversity did not prevail

While sexy was back, it looks like he was only back for those with traditionally modeled tiny frames. People with disabilities, older models and tall personalities were visibly under-represented throughout the week, which seemed like a step backwards for the industry.

Devil in the details

The sense of optimism this season was reflected in a number of whimsical details spotted throughout the week. At Loewe, a series of lovely heels in the shape of nail polish bottles, birthday candles and cracked eggs were a welcome surprise in a collection from the brand’s creative director. Jonathan anderson described as “neurotic, psychedelic, completely hysterical,” in the show’s notes.

A neon eyeliner crossed the eye like mini lightning bolts at Chloe, while a chic double bang was seen on the models at the Dior show. Schiaparelli offered an alternative to rainy summer days with his playful umbrella hat, paired with a striped long-sleeved bodysuit.

Farewell to a friend in the fashion industry

After a week of uplifting collection unveilings, Fashion Week ended with a moving tribute to one of the industry’s most beloved designers, Alber Elbaz, who died of Covid-19 in April, just a few months away. after the launch of its new brand, AZ Factory.

On Tuesday evening, the fashion industry gathered in the great hall of the Carreau du Temple to witness a special tribute show. Appropriately named “Love Brings Love”, the event brought together 45 of the most renowned designers and fashion houses, including Valentino and Loewe, who each brought a look to the show. It was their love letter to Elbaz, whose generosity and spirit touched many. “To me, Alber was heart, soul and generosity,” Valentino Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli told CNN Style.

The show opened with longtime Elbaz partner Alex Koo speaking to the audience. “Alber would have been incredibly honored to be surrounded by his peers, colleagues, associates, friends and family,” Koo said.

“He touched the hearts of everyone he met with humor and a lot of generosity. He made us laugh. He made us cry. And he made us dream. Her dream was to bring together the best talent in our industry to celebrate love, beauty and hope. And tonight, his dream comes true.

Top image: The final at Chloé

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