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It was perhaps the sudden cold snap, perhaps the first sign of the exhaustion of the pre-Christmas marathon: far fewer guests than expected had gathered at the Weltmuseum am Heldenplatz to attend the event. this year's Austrian Fashion Awards ceremony.
Founded by the Federal Chancellery and the Office of Culture of the City of Vienna, these awards are usually awarded as part of a small fashion festival, which was not possible this year for organizational reasons. The Austrian Association of Responsible Fashion has therefore focused on a unique ceremony.
As in previous years, it was decided not to present the fashion of this year's excellent designers and other creators receiving public support in a conventional show format. At the same time, fashion designer Jakob Lena Knebl, who had a dialogue with the Mumok collection, had developed a special presentation format. Unfortunately, this was only accessible for a few hours in the middle of the museum's permanent exhibition, a crowded room: for a complete understanding, it would probably have taken more space and time.
Dieter Chmelar said: "Apparently, the TV presenter was also selected because of his cult as a valid Twitter account to bring the two winners to the scene. Chmelar's unusually euphoric tone, reminiscent of the 1980s television series, was at least a striking alternative to comparable presentations, deliberately giving up all entertainment value for the rather subdued and avant-garde Austrian Fashion ceremonies. Awards.
Arthur Arbesser will this year receive the Outstanding Artist Award from the Federal Chancellery, which has been awarded for the third time in the field of fashion design, but this ceremony has only been announced on Thursday at the Weltmuseum. . Arbesser was a small bouquet that introduced a few days ago his collection designed for the Italian fashion brand Fay in the former truck stop and will be inaugurated next week at the opening of a temporary store in Vienna, but already presented. "For the first time, flowers," he rejoices.
Courses with ulterior motives
Jana Wieland, winner of the City of Vienna Fashion Award, is 2018: the host had the pleasure of meeting the young designer, who wishes to strengthen her presence in Japan with the award, after years. "You are the best ambbadador of your fashion," said Chmelar, recalling the Crazy Shoe Award, where he had met Wieland seven years ago.
As soon as the astonishment aroused by the anecdote about the range of fashion awards awarded in this country was appeased, the formal ceremonial act was over: we had gone from the distracted part of the evening at a rather theoretical stage. Afterwards, the public was invited to watch fashion installations in small groups at the center of the museum's permanent exhibition. "The World Museum is my favorite museum in Vienna," Jakob Lena Knebl told a curator. Fragments of postcolonial theories that support the permanent exhibition (as must be the case in such a house) have invited Knebl to make even more sense. In a jiffy – the temporary fashion installations could only be seen for a few hours – they could not open when Knebl himself was giving a glimpse of the background. Visitors leaving the course without further explanation, the ulterior motives could remain completely foreign.
Unfortunately, the collections shown between model pieces and dummies have unfortunately also dropped. As laudable as the approach of showing fashion with a lot of content, it is not an obligation, even in such a context. Young talents such as René Scheibenbauer, Patricia Narbon, Herta Bernane and others no longer have the opportunity in Vienna to show their fashion to a wider audience.
This is another reason why less complex forms of presentation are reasonable. As much as you eagerly await clothes that openly show that it's not just a beautiful dress: at an evening dedicated to exquisite fashion, creations of creative talents as unique owners of their meaning are ample.
("Die Presse", printed edition, 29.11.2018)
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