"It's not raining, it's the tears of the Croats". How the World Cup changed Moscow and for whom she was sick in the final



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In front of us, two black girls from Zambia, next to a Vietnamese company, in front of the Germans on the ground. Some people drink beer, in front of them a girl sitting on the bedspread and peeling seeds. It was a multicultural company, at least 25,000 fans, who watched the match between France and Croatia in the fan zone on the Vorobyovy hills in Moscow. In the most moving moments, the strangers began to hug and squeeze each other on the shoulders, and one man suddenly took the second and began to turn around the second [Photo:OlgaShukailoTUTBY"border=""data-x-src="https://imgtytby/n/shukaylo/0c/8/fanzona_chm_20180715_shuk_tutby_phsl_3526jpg"data-xwidth="1200"data-y-height="480"data-y-src="https://imgtytby/720x720s/n/shukaylo/0C/8/fanzona_chm_20180715_shuk_tutby_phsl_3526jpg"data-y-width="720"data-zoom="1"height="480"hspace="0"src="https://imgtytby/720x720s/n/shukaylo/0c/8/fan-zona_chm_20180715_shuk_tutby_phsl_3526jpg"title="Photo:OlgaShukailoTUTBY"vspace="0"width="720"/>

"He's crying the sky Croatian "

The fan zone on the Sparrow Hills may contain 25 The spectators began to gather at least three hours before the start of the match.At that time, in the subway towards the movement of football fans, it there was jà many policemen with bulletproof vests and helmets in hand. .

  Photo: Olga Shukailo, TUT.BY

The road leading to the fans area was blocked by huge orange cars, which cleans the streets – anti-terrorist security measures. At the entrance to the fan area itself, all the bags were pbaded through a transmission band, the liquid was ejected.

In the place, it was possible to buy water and beer. However, the sellers screwed the caps in all the bottles.

  Photo: Olga Shukailo, TUT.BY "border =" 0 "data-x-height =" 800 "data-x-src =" https: // img. tyt.by/n/shukaylo/0b/7/fan-zona_chm_20180715_shuk_tutby_phsl_3510.jpg "data-x-width =" 1200 "data-y-height =" 480 "data-y-src =" https: //img.tyt .b / 720x720s / n / shukaylo / 0b / 7 / fan-zona_chm_20180715_shuk_tutby_phsl_3510.jpg "data-y-width =" 720 "data-zoom =" 1 "height =" 480 "hspace =" 0 "src =" https: //img.tyt.by/720x720s/n/shukaylo/0b/7/fan-zona_chm_20180715_shuk_tutby_phsl_3510.jpg "title =" Photo: Olga Shukailo, TUT.BY "vspace =" 0 "width =" 720 "/> [19659006] - We are forbidden to give bottles with lids, because people can start throwing them at each other, - explained the young man salesman. </p>
<p>  Before the tents with Zak long lines, but the most long, perhaps, was in the World Cup branded product store, it seemed like it would never end. </p>
<p><img alt=

Visually, the fans have been distinguished Croatia supporters of the 39 ;team. They are easy to distinguish in the crowd on white in a red cage t-shirts, face painting and hats. But fans of the French team behaved more modestly, so, it seemed, it seemed that they were less numerous.

Before the match, the audience was entertained with songs – in Russian and English. One was even dedicated to the Russian president, with the words "My best friend is President Putin". There were those who sang

. Photo: Olga Shukailo, TUT.BY

And the match started, those who were sitting on the floor stood up to see what is happening on the screens of the fan zone, the first goal is scored by the French team, then thunder and rain begin to pour in. heaven, joke in the crowd.

  Photo: Olga Shukailo, TUT.BY "border =" 0 "data-x-height =" 800 "data-x-src =" https: //img.tyt. by / n / shukaylo / 0a / 6 / fan-zona_chm_20180715_shuk_tutby_phsl_3551.jpg "data-x-width =" 1200 "data-y-height =" 480 "data-y-src =" https://img.tyt.by /720x720s/n/shukaylo/0a/6/fan-zona_chm_20180715_shuk_tutby_phsl_3551.jpg "data-y-width =" 720 "zoom-data =" 1 "height =" 480 "hspace =" 0 "src =" https: // img.tyt.by/720x720s/n/shukaylo/0a/6/fan-zona_chm_20180715_shuk_tutby_phsl_3551.jpg "title =" Photo: Olga Shukailo, TUT.BY "vspace =" 0 "width =" 720 "/> </p>
<p>  When the goal was scored by the Croatians, the supporters started bouncing, hugging each other and hugging each other, maybe that part of the fan zone was clearly for the Croatians. But at the end of the first half, the leaders were the French.Besides to us was a family from France.They apologized for their not so good English, but emotionally stated that their team is playing fantasy today and they hope to become champions. </p>
<p>  In the second half, we were among the fans of Russia and Brazil. The company of the Russians was sick for the French. One of the men even removed a wooden cross from his neck and lifted him to the sky to win. The strangers looked in his direction and, it seems, did not understand very well what was going on. At one point, the girl even said, "Crazy." </p>
<p>  – You can play for such a president until the end, "the young man encouraged the Croats when it was already possible to guess the outcome of the game. [Photo:OlgaShukailoTUTBY"border="0"data-x-height="800"data-x-src="https://imgtytby/n/shukaylo/0b/6/fanzona_chm_20180715_shuk_tutby_phsl_3572jpg"data-x-width="1200"data-y-height="480"data-y-src="https://imgtytby/720x720s/n/shukaylo/0b/6/fanzona_chm_20180715_shuk_tutby_phsl_3572jpg"data-y-width="720"data-zoom="1"height="480"hspace="0"src="https://imgtytby/720x720s/n/shukaylo/0b/6/fanzona_chm_20180715_shuk_tutby_phsl_3572jpg"title="Photo:OlgaShukailoTUTBY"vspace="0"width="720"/></p>
<p>  But if you do not know which teams were fighting for the title of world champion, it was possible to badume that among the fans there are Russians among them </p>
<p>  – Russia! Russia! – from time to time he has reached our share of the fan zone. </p>
<p>  – When are you already calm? and the same young man who believed that for the "President of Croatia" he could restrain himself until the end. </p>
<p><img alt=

When the score was already 4: 2 in favor of France, many have started to leave the fan zone.

  Photo: Olga Shukailo, TUT.BY "border =" 0 "data-x-height =" 800 "data-x-src =" https: //img.tyt.by/n/shukaylo/09/a/fan-zona_chm_20180715_shuk_tutby_phsl_3731.jpg "data-x-width =" 1200 "data-y-height =" 480 "data-y-src =" https: / /img.tyt.by/720x720s/n/shukaylo/09/a/fan-zona_chm_20180 715_shuk_tutby_phsl_3731.jpg "data-y-width =" 720 "zoom-data =" 1 "height =" 480 "hspace =" 0 "src =" https://img.tyt.by/720x720s/n/shukaylo/09 /a/fan-zona_chm_20180715_shuk_tutby_phsl_3731.jpg "title =" Photo: Olga Shukailo, TUT.BY "vspace =" 0 "width =" 720 "/> </p>
<p>  After the final whistle, while the fans thought where to go the evening, sn go began to rain. Yes, such as in puddles water sneakers. Fans joked that Moscow is turning into a lake, soaked to the bone, strangers sing songs in their own language. And we discussed that thanks to the championship, Moscow has really changed a lot. </p>
<h2>  "One has the impression of being abroad" </h2>
<p>  Even visually one sees that the city was arranged to the championship: there is more greenery on the flowerbeds. In the Red Square and Nikolskaya Street the concierges even sweep the fallen lime blossom. Admittedly, the cleaning staff look very tired. </p>
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– We work for 12-14 hours, with all the people of Moscow have were driven to the center, they are dirty in other places because of this, "says one of the cleaners." He jokes or seriously adds that to Nikolskaya, the tourists hang out, each of the janitors is badigned sections of three meters, that's why there are so many.

Moscow roads were put in order, some buildings "refreshed."

  Photo: Olga Shukailo, TUT.BY

The Tverskaya Zastava Square near the railway station of Belarus, Riding out of the country, to the Autumn 2017 opened after ten years of renovation. Before that, when they arrived in Moscow by train, the Belarusians saw only a fence and fences. Here is now a well organized place with a monument to Maxim Gorki, tourists sitting on benches, parking nearby where you can rent a bike.

Near the station there are information racks and volunteers from the World Cup. They give cards, advise where it is cheaper to stop and watch football.

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<p>  In the city ​​generally no more navigation, in the subway on the walls and the ground there are indications to go to the stadium "Luzhniki" and the fan area on the Vorobyovy Gory.There are more toilets in the subway stations of subway stations. </p>
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Guides on Red Square do not have time to talk with reporters. One of the guides is making waves, picks up a microphone and continues to call those who want to watch Moscow for 500 Russian rubles.

The ice cream seller, who is ready, does not want to say how much it was possible to win during the championship. But, judging by the price per package, nobody is offended – 100 Russian rubles (a little over three Belarusian rubles).

  Photo: Olga Shukailo, TUT.BY

In the park near the Kremlin, despite the signs forbidding walking on the lawn, small businesses have settled in the grbad.

A family with a child is sitting on the bench, they come from the suburbs, they say that they do not go to matches: first, because they have a small child, and then, it's a fun pleasure when current wages. Andrei works at a spa, and his salary is 33 thousand rubles (about 1045 Belarusian). Tatyana Now in the decree, she is an accountant and after the decree, she is offered a job of 15 thousand rubles (about 475 Belarusian) per month.

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<figcaption> Andrey, Tatiana and their daughter Anastasia </figcaption></figure>
<p><strong>  – Are you generally happy that you have a lot of tourists and tourists? </strong> – We ask. </p>
<p>  – We are happy, now we will have a pension of 65 years. Five years will be the whole country to pay, – says Andrew. </p>
<p>  – And of course, it's interesting. I have the feeling that we have visited abroad. Previously, there were fewer strangers, but now there are a lot – and this is somewhat unusual. Another railway was slightly repaired, more electric trains were started between Moscow and the Moscow region, there were many new ones. In English, bus stops have been announced, the metro has been announced for several years, says Tatiana. </p>
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But the conversation always comes back about the increase in the age of retirement

– I have an uncle – 63 years – and it is not already there – "Many people do not live easily, people do not recruit in the province, we do not need it anymore, and how, at 55, he will be expelled from work – he would have reached the age of 60 and he needs another 10 years to shoot – I can not even imagine. It will hit very hard on the poor layers. Although the television propaganda goes, that everyone is in agreement to raise the retirement age. They wave all the arms and legs, everyone is in agreement, but I know that people are against, but they do not listen.

Prices are not higher and foreigners are more on the outskirts of Moscow

in the cafe and shops because of the championship has not grown. But, in comparison with other regions, they were still higher in the capital. For example, now you can dine in a non-alcoholic cafe, one for a thousand rubles – about 32 Belarusian. With this money you can buy borsch, vareniki, sour cream and lemonade.

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<figcaption> Nikolskaya Street in Moscow </figcaption></figure>
<p>  Diana </strong> Diana </strong> says that the service has improved, it appeared a menu in English. </p>
<p><img alt=

In the street Nikolskaya, where during the championship around the clock fans walk, many cafes and restaurants In the legendary Varenichna, we visited three, all full of looks: there are two large halls and a summer terrace, only Russian journalists and a waiter speak Russian , all other visitors are foreigners [Photo:OlgaShukailoTUTBY"border="0"data-x-height="800"data-x-src="https://imgtytby/n/shukaylo/00/1/chm_v_moskve_20180713_shuk_tutby_phsl_2877jpg"data-x-width="1200"data-y-height="480"data-y-src="https://imgtytby/720x720s/n/shukaylo/00/1/chm_v_moskve_20180713_shuk_tutby_phsl_2877jpg"data-y-width="720"data-zoom="1"height="480"hspace="0"src="https://imgtytby/720x720s/n/shukaylo/00/1/chm_v_moskve_20180713_shuk_tutby_phsl_2877jpg"title="Photos:OlgaShukailoTUTBY"vspace="0"width="720"/>

In the souvenir shops According to the observations of the Muscovites, the prices have been identified. If before the championship kokoshnik could be bought and for 700 rubles (22 Belarusian), then during the matches the prices reached up to three thousand (95 rubles). Nevertheless, the excitement of football memories is felt. For the first time in our lives, we saw a waiting line in a souvenir shop that goes out on the street – and there are still twenty people.

  Photo: Olga Shukailo, TUT.BY "border =" 0 "data-x-height =" 800 "x-src =" https://img.tyt.by/n/shukaylo/06/5/moskva_chm_201807014_shuk_tutby_phsl_3241 .jpg "data-x-width =" 1200 "data-y-height =" 480 "data-y-src =" https://img.tyt.by/720x720s/n/shukaylo/06/5/moskva_chm_201807014_shuk_tutby_phsl_3241. jpg "data-y-width =" 720 "data-zoom =" 1 "height =" 480 "hspace =" 0 "src =" https://img.tyt.by/720x720s/n/shukaylo/06/5 /moskva_chm_201807014_shuk_tutby_phsl_3241.jpg "title =" Photo: Olga Shukailo, TUT.BY "vspace =" 0 "width =" 720 "/>

 
<figcaption> In Zaryadye Park </figcaption></figure>
<p>  Near the Kremlin and Red Square in Moscow, last year opened Zaryadye Park. Here we meet ayishnikov <strong> Alexander </strong> and <strong> Ildar </strong>. </p>
<p>  – I live in Lublino, it is south-east of Moscow. Even before the championship, we had the central ring of Moscow. It is clear that he probably did so for the championship guests to be comfortable, but we were also offered a gift. MCC relieves the subway a lot. There were a lot of pointers, they were not there before and had to be lost, now they are almost everywhere, – says Ildar. </p>
<p><img alt=

– Is Something Worse?

– No, probably – Alexander

– It is estimated that many foreigners Even in Lublino, and this is not the center, I see both blacks and Asians, he There was not so much before, and now they even go to difficult places to access.

"Moscow has become very happy"

note that thanks to the championship the atmosphere of the city has changed a lot. This is particularly felt in the center.

  Photo: Olga Shukailo, TUT.BY

– Москва стала очень веселая, – говорит Игорь Козлов

– Мне кажется, что столько много людей появилось, стало много улыбок.. Мы уже шестой-седьмой раз ходим по Никольской за время чемпи оната, и с кем ни разговариваем из иностранцев, все говорят, что у них кардинально мнение о России изменилось. Что они думали, читая СМИ, что Россия закрытая, суровая и грозная, а настолько влюбились в страну, что и не хочется уезжать – добавляет его супруга Татьяна


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На самой Никольской уже к концу чемпионата людей стало меньше, чем во время пика мундиаля. . Тем не менее, поздним вечером там все равно не протолкнуться

Вот за одним из столов, порядком выпив, что-то поют и кричат ​​болельщики из Хорватии

 Фото. Ольга Шукайло, TUT.BY "border =" 0 "data-x-height =" 800 "data-x-src =" https://img.tyt.by/n/shukaylo/02/e/moskva_chm_201807014_shuk_tutby_phsl_3400.jpg "data-x-width =" 1200 "data- y-height = "480" data-y-src = "https://img.tyt.by/720x720s/n/shukaylo/02/e/moskva_chm_201807014_shuk_tutby_phsl_3400.jpg" data-y-width = "720" data-zoom = "1" height = "480" hspace = "0" src = "https://img.tyt.by/720x720s/n/shukaylo/02/e/moskva_chm_201807014_shuk_tutby_phsl_3400.jpg" title = "Фото: Ольга Шукайло, TUT .BY "vspace =" 0 "width =" 720 "/> </p>
<p> А о е [е[еЕтнетлиунеепарняЧтоотвечаетдевушкаостаетсязакадромтаккакволнойболельщиковнаспростосноситвдругуюсторонуулицы</p>
<p> Здесь еще одна компания пьяных и веселых иностранцев </p>
<p><img alt=

Еще немного – и мы доходим до турникетов с осмотром. Кажется, если был в Беларуси, то даже ночью заглянули бы в каждую щель сумки, and здесь проверка более легкая. На улице уже темно, но веселье не заканчивается. Когда только болельщики успевают отдохнуть, учитывая такой насыщенный месяц чемпионата?