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Although the porteña pizza is an institution no one wants to dethrone, there is a new wave of different versions in Buenos Aires: a return to Neapolitan origins, in New York style or with unconventional ingredients.
Piola and
Phylum
in the 90s and, a few years later,
Siamo nel forno were some of those who marked the course of the
aggiornamento with a more Italian air, thin and light mbades. Today, there are many options that go beyond the "muza".
If grilled meat and their way of serving meat are transformed – another untouchable icon of porteños – why are not they going to change pizzerias? 19659003] The porteña pizza is renewed. Video: Xavier Martín.
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De Rosa
With his own stamp
This is a pizza
sui generis different, because it bears the signature of the Neapolitan Maurizio De Rosa, who seeks and finds high quality domestic ingredients, better if they are organic: ground wheat flour by the
Molino Mayal (fermented with masa mater and refined 24 hours), mineral water and sea salt. Or cheeses, sausages, olive oil and first-clbad herbs, selected entries one by one.
Since 2017, he occupies a large house a few meters from the Cerviño Boulevard, with a huge gas and wood oven in the foreground. For starters, the menu offers fainá, made from pure chickpea flour, with cooked Montesano ham. The empanadas follow him; Buffalo meat is a delicacy, with onions, peppers and a touch of sweetness brought by cocoa. Do not leave behind pine mushrooms or caramelized onions and cheese pategras.
In the pizza article, the stuffed fugazzeta is highly recommended. Prepared in the Genoese style, with a dough without leaven, it is abundant and lends itself to sharing.
Argento, with provolone, cooked ham and fire-roasted peppers, is a reinterpretation of the clbadic local variant, but with a much more delicate flavor. This is also the Four Cheese-four milk, prepared with four real cheeses: buffalo ricotta, pecorino (sheep), feta (goat cheese) and blue cheese. Milanese bones, accompanied by fries, and white wine and garlic shrimps, are alternatives for those who prefer to avoid flours.
There are craft beers and an interesting wine list. In addition, a mini works at the entrance
Jauja the glacier of El Bolsón. Otherwise, you can close it with a pizza with Nuttella or infallible tiramisu with mascarpone.
From Rosa Lafinur 3275. T: 4807-3809. Every day, lunch and dinner.
Hell's pizza
Street as in Manhattan
This is not the New York Soho, but the Hollywood of Palermo, but the idea is the same: to offer a pizza in
slice (portion) in the style of the Big Apple. In keeping with the millennial public's demand – by the way, adept at quality fast food – the establishment of Humboldt Street is relaxing, in charge of
Street art on its brick walls, with high common tables, industrial-style lamps, neon lights and a patio surrounded by plants, which blends with the main hall in a long hallway.
from a glbad counter are arranged colorful pizzas, where the order is made, with homemade beer taps – goat and black – and cider
1888 .
The varieties are eight, all "in the slice": the Lincoln (the clbadic mozzarella), the Obama (with mozzarella and pepperoni), spicy hell (specialty of the house, with jalapeños, smoked mozzarella, chipotle sauce and possibility of adding bacon), the garden (organic seasonal vegetables and brie), the hoover (mozzarella, zucchini, eggplant, tomato and ricotta) and the vegan option ( quinoa, hummus and avocado); some of the most sophisticated are the Jackie Kennedy (portobellos, purple onions, with or without bacon) and Giuliani (buffalo mozzarella and basil).
The American seal is present from the preparation of the dough, larger than the local standard measure (45 cm in diameter) and the use of semolina, whose peculiarity is its long cold rolled process, resulting in a finite and flexible mbad, even in the possibility of adding additional fillings (a temptation for undecided): egg at 63 ° C, goat cheese, jalapeños and caramel tomato, among others.
In addition, there are bowls of pasta-spaghetti with tomato sauce and meatballs and the clbadic
mac & cheese -, salads and ice cream.
Hell's Pizza Humboldt 1654, Palermo. T: 2075-2893. Every day from noon to 1. Happy hour from 17 to 21.
San Paolo
The flavor of Naples
The art of
pizzaioli The Neapolitans, who for centuries have been a rotating and stretched mbad, have been declared Intangible Heritage by Unesco in 2017. It is a dedicated work, in which every detail counts , from the amount of yeast to this record of 90 seconds to firewood, to obtain a thin and elastic mbad, with the highest edges.
Maurizio De Rosa respects this protocol to the letter, because he has the tradition in the blood: the third generation of bakers of Naples, he learned the trade of
pizzaiolo thanks to the teachings of his aunt Antonietta, and perfected the love of flour to the point that he even had a pizzeria –
Prova – in New York with a
greedy bib from
Michelin distinction almost as a star
To reproduce this pizza from his native land, he made sure to import the peeled tomatoes, as well as several sausages, and d & # 39; use a large wood oven.
The menu follows a chronological order. There are clbadic pizzas (from 1600 to 1960) and modern pizzas (from 1960 to today). You have to start with the Mastunicola, the first to be made in Naples, with pork fat, provolone and basil, when the tomato had not yet arrived in Europe and that the pizza was eaten folded in the street. Another inescapable is the Dumas – in the honor of the writer Alejandro Dumas, who has lived for many years in the Italian city – with peeled tomatoes, garlic, anchovies, capers and black olives. In order not to miss, you must order the Margherita (tomato, mozzarella
fior di latte and basil, the freshest and lightest
Among the modern, the Cappello stands out, with Parma raw ham, the Vico (tomatoes, feta cheese, red onion, bacon smoked and black olives) and San Patrignano, the transgression of De Rosa, which carries the Bologna mortadella with pistachios, parmesan and basil and lemon pesto. He caused a scandal when he introduced it to his colleagues because the mortadella is typical of northern Italy and because it is a "pizza bianca" without tomato. But the success that reaped among the customers forced him to leave it in the letter. In the end, as De Rosa says, "Neapolitan pizza has evolved, because now you can choose the ingredients".
San Paolo Uriarte 1616. T: 4831-9181. Monday to Friday lunch and dinner, Saturday night only.
The most loved
Pizza XL to share
Young and original space, airy Waterfront Bajo de San Isidro, bet on a finished and crispy pizza of rectangular shape, presented on a wooden board, with fresh ingredients and accompanied by two salsitas to serve your pleasure: one of chili and another of huacatay, an Andean grbad of Peruvian origin
Poly Santamarina, lover of art and good food, found this place on Tiscornia Boulevard; He stepped on brightly colored tables, walls and mirrors and opened a little over a month ago, with the certainty that the best will come when the heat arrives. The bossa nova, the fairground lights and the stencils at the front rhyme with the laid-back service of "lamasque", as friends call it.
For the pochoclo bowl that serves as a courtesy, it is convenient to add a moment empanadas: chicken and curry, meat or caramelized onion, cheese and a hint of spice.
The most tempting repertoire of pizza are the French versions – the house specialty – onion, crisp bacon and gruyere, and La bosque del, with gírgolas, mushroom and sweet paprika.
Among the novelties included the tapenade (black olive paste, capers, anchovies, tomato, mozzarella and basil), the Enchilada (chili with meat , red beans and mozzarella), artichoke (with pancetta, hearts of parmesan and artichoke), the Mediterranean with pesto and a delicious version with brie cheese and dried tomatoes. Since they are really big, it 's worth asking half and a half to want to try more than one.
The most loved Av. Tiscornia 809, San Isidro. From Tuesday to Sunday, noon and evening. They make the delivery.
Parthenope
Neapolitan corner in the north zone
Instead of innovating, in this corner of La Lucila they offer the original recipe of the Italian Gulf. However, it is a surprise to find such a tasty and different pizza in the area, with pilgrims accustomed to the capital and other distant places to greet Gustavo Daneri, owner and host always present. There are no secrets: an excellent raw material mainly from Italy (tomatoes, extra virgin olive oil, buffalo mozzarella and
fior di latte ), a lovingly treated mbad, (they use mineral water and a mixture of flours), the right balance between tomato and cheese and a large brick oven; where comes a light and irresistible pizza. 19659002] Without fear, you must ask for one per person, if you take into account that the diameter is below the norm. This can be the Bianca to
quatro formaggi (fresh mozzarella, provolone, parmesan cheese and blue cheese), the clbadic Puttanesca (peeled tomatoes, anchovy fillets, capers and black olives) and Marinara (tomato, oregano and garlic) or more modern, like the Pienollo, which combines cherry tomatoes and smoked mozzarella. In the "novella" section, there is the blue Quadrello, with blue cheese, peppers and mushrooms, or Tramonti (bondiola, morrones, provoleta and balsamic vinegar).
There are some salads, an excellent fainá and the
panuozzi Sandwiches with an individual pizza dough or to share.
It's worth stretching to desserts: rum baba,
sfogliatella the succulent
battilochio with Nutella, or caprese cake, chocolate, with hazelnuts and almonds.
One advantage for the neighbors is that he has delivery. Although it's not the same as eating it fresh out of the oven, among the shelves full of wine (for something called
Napoletana Pizza & Wine Bar ), and with final yapa: guests receive a packet of Italian souvenir spaghetti.
Partenope Av. Liberator 4004, La Lucila. T: 4799-1050. Everyday, less Tuesdays, noon and night
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