A poetic vision of Orphism in the Fendi Couture fashion show

While everything seemed to be a sea of ​​servile bloggers, ultra-technical techniques, pompous performances and conservative tributes to DNA brands, Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Fendi finally make us dream.

They did it precisely by setting new limits and reinventing the wheel with Fendi, in order to create a new fashion paradigm in the brand the most famous leather in the world, with a dose of poetry for Haute Couture.

"It may seem incredible, but 80% of these clothes were not even made with furs," said Karl Lagerfeld behind the scenes at the Palais Brongniart, the former French Stock Exchange.

The collection, inspired by the artistic movement of Orphic Cubism, with its obsession with geometric patterns and brilliant abstraction, it had a wonderful artistic inclination, evident in the notable motif Circulars that covered many coats dazzling.

"In fact, it is made of lambskin," Silvia Fendi kindly corrected a curious editor behind the scenes, pointing to a honey-colored coat with the famous multiple circles initiated by the Czech painter František Kupka , which seemed to be made of mink, but no, it was actually lamb skin.

A remarkable multicolored coat that recalls the vertical paintings of Robert Delaunay's abstract architecture no doubt seemed to be made of lambskin but in reality it was organza; a large black astrakan coat, really opulent and very elegant, turned out to be velvet. While a beautiful abstract bolero with a fringed skirt that seemed to come from a Sonia Delaunay painting was mysteriously similar to leather, but in fact it was made of organza.

The collection bears the very appropriate name of Fendi Couture, as the distance from its previous more restrictive title, Fendi Fur

All models wore cubist cut Memphis shoes, with heels composed of plexiglbad, d & # 39; maple and horn.

Beyond the technique, they emphasize the refinement of the vision, its rarefied colors and its pungent kindness. A brand new look after a season that has oscillated between technically bold and tired and stereotyped.

The term Orphism was coined by the great French poet Guillaume Apollinaire, who, however, is not the only one of his kind. would not have been impressed by the literary qualities of the show's program, which invented the dubious concept of "Mongolian lamb stunts".

The show was also a brilliant start in Paris for the new CEO of Fendi, Serge Brunschwig, who radiated a positive joy. Even though his two predecessors, Michael Burke and Pietro Beccari, were also behind the scenes to enjoy the reflected glory.

"Absolutely sublime," said the president of LVMH and Bernard Arnault, the best owner of Fendi.

Asked about a recent New York Times article on the fact that LVMH and rivals Kering and Richemont are getting rid of smaller brands in their portfolios to prepare for major new acquisitions, Arnault Ecoute, the big brands are like Great paintings, the smartest thing is to keep them! "

" Like their creators? "Suggested a publisher.

" Exactly, like the great designers, "Arnault replied with a sneer