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A few piano notes resound and Marlène Dietrich's voice rises in the stable where cattle are ruminating with beautiful black dress: Emmanuel Rialland, young wagyu beef farmer, settled in the outskirts of Nantes, looks on his animals as precious as placid.
Arrived in France about ten years ago, the wagyu (literally "cow of Japan") with delicate and tasty flesh, whose most famous declension is beef Kobe, who is only raised in Kobe, has made a small place in the French pastures and invites himself to the biggest tables.
Faced with the crisis affecting the French breeding, Emmanuel Rialland decided a beautiful day to change everything: "I am the 5th generation of breeders Six to seven years ago, I totally reviewed my production model," he explains.
"Animal Welfare , respect for the environment, organoleptic qualities, food safety and traceability " he says, wishing "an exceptional product for the big tables".
He thus joined a very closed club of breeders, which managed to obtain a recognition by the Ministry of Agriculture in March.
"The recognition of the breed is official, it is a plus on the level of the traceability", affirms Mr. Rialland, recalling that until then, the wagyu was clbadified in France like "+ other foreign race", a not very flattering name. "
At the last census carried out in February 2018, the French badociation of wagyus breeders had 14 farms representing 600 heads.
" We do not even represent 10% of the annual consumption "in France, admits Mr. Rialland, who would like this proportion to increase. "But for that, it is necessary that everyone has the same specifications, it does not take this orientation, today, everyone does as he wants."
For his part, he is caring with his flock, made from "purebred" embryos: large sleeping surface on straw, music (clbadical, jazz) broadcast permanently. "We control the air, humidity, I also add essential oil by ventilation," says Mr. Rialland.
– A market of "niche" –
In the manger of his exotic cattle , again, nothing is left to chance: "In Japan, they use beer, I use a micro-alga, which contains minerals, vitamins, probiotics", demonstrates Mr. Rialland.
It feeds its herd of organic hay that grows in the marshes near Mazerolles, where cattle will also graze and are part of an agro-ecological cycle, allowing the rehabilitation of these fish-eating water strips, taking advantage of 350 hectares of meadows
"I supplement with flaxseed meal, because it is the richest omega 3 seed, which favors the marbling character of the meat," says Rialland. That is to say, a harmonious distribution of the fat in the muscle which favors its creaminess.
The farmer fattens his cattle for 36 to 40 months, which is twice as much as a conventional breeding. Its products, whose marketing has just begun, have attracted a great restaurateur from Nantes and the Rungis market.
Gérard Cagna, former two Michelin stars, who prides himself on being the first French chef to cook this meat singular, likes his "grain of meat" and his "suavité".
If he concedes that this dish is "a little expensive", the chief argues that the In general, the population will eat less meat and will be in demand for better quality products.
You must still have 180 euros per kilogram of beef tenderloin, which is three to four times the price of a meat
Prices that can m or even climb, when one places on the plate the beef directly imported from Kobe, the most luxurious variety.
What makes Riccardo Giraudi, importer of luxury meat in Europe, say that we are in a "niche" market: despite the high prices charged, it estimates the total value of imports of this "ultra-luxury" product for the continent at 20 million euros
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